tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-49619199387136036112024-03-06T21:02:11.231+01:00les petites margueritesVoyages à travers les textiles
- Travelling through textiles -Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.comBlogger99125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-57714916190300233842017-12-02T19:39:00.000+01:002017-12-02T19:39:13.830+01:00<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: large;">Les danseurs oubliés<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Je viens de lire une
belle histoire que je voudrais partager.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A l’occasion de
l’Exposition universelle à Paris en 1937, il y a eu également une exposition de
danses populaires. Elle était
l’initiative d’un suédois, Rolf de Maré, installé à Paris et fondateur des
Archives Internationales de la Danse. L’entre- deux guerres était une époque où
on s’intéressait beaucoup à la danse sous ses formes tant populaires qu’avant-gardistes :
pensez aux Ballets Russes, à Isadora Duncan ou Joséphine Baker…Des instituts de
danse européens furent invités à soumettre des maquettes de danseurs en costumes
populaires. Les figures devraient être en fil de fer et comme figées dans un
mouvement de danse. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Que sont devenues les
maquettes après l’exposition de 1937 ?
Les activités des Archives ont cessé dans les années 1940. Rolf de Maré
est rentré à Stockholm, où il a fondé le Musée de Danse. Les maquettes suédoises
auraient été envoyées à ce musée, et les autres transférées à la Bibliothèque
de l’<span style="font-size: 18.6667px;">Opéra</span> de Paris.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dans les années 1970, une
ethnologue polonaise s’est mise à chercher ces maquettes. Le Musée de Danse à
Stockholm n’en avait aucune connaissance. L’Opéra de Paris a confirmé posséder
des documents de l’exposition comme des affiches, mais ne savait rien sur les
maquettes. La chercheuse s’est néanmoins rendue sur place. En traversant les
couloirs de l’Opéra, elle a vu des maquettes de scènes d’opéras, et a dit aux
documentalistes de l’Opéra l’accompagnant que c’était de figures de ce genre,
montées sur des planches de bois, qu’elle cherchait. L’une des personnes lui
dit alors : « Nous avons quelque chose sous le toit, au petit
magasin ». Effectivement, elle y a trouvé non seulement les huit maquettes
polonaises qu’elle cherchait, mais un grand nombre d’autres figures des pays
européens. Et voilà que, après des échanges entre les institutions françaises
et polonaises, cette collection se trouve aujourd’hui au Musée ethnographique
de Varsovie – et j’ai hâte de la voir ! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Voici quelques-unes de
ces maquettes. Regardez avec quel soin ces figures sont habillées dans leurs
costumes régionaux brodés, ornés de dentelles, de bijoux en miniature, de
rubans multicolores qui virevoltent….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Roumanie/ Romania<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estonie/Estonia</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Alsace <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Suède / Sweden<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Serbie / Serbia<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pays Basque / Basque Country<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pologne, danse des
montagnes des Tatras / Poland, dance from the Tatra mountains<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Angleterre/ England, <i>Morris dancing</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Croatie / Croatia<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Crète/ Crete<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdkgI272ZE8A-TT1LAQYh8CoLx4cWHKWFwviHLwmZfXG3RHcFrYgOQblanu1xTh2VWFGwEEotAG8X6s871QWZJIkSHgv6VTqJLUxf4RKJMUEVkzyJ7_WXl5DYdOzh7JMqFITXrjYoyujk/s1600/DSCF8875.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdkgI272ZE8A-TT1LAQYh8CoLx4cWHKWFwviHLwmZfXG3RHcFrYgOQblanu1xTh2VWFGwEEotAG8X6s871QWZJIkSHgv6VTqJLUxf4RKJMUEVkzyJ7_WXl5DYdOzh7JMqFITXrjYoyujk/s400/DSCF8875.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pologne, <i>danse de Cracovie</i>/ Poland, <i>Cracow dance</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: large;">The forgotten dancers</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I have just read a wonderful story that I would like
to share.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">In 1937, there was a Universal Exhibition held in
Paris. Among other events, there was an exhibition of popular dances, at the
initiative of a Swede, Rolf de Maré, who resided in Paris and had founded the
International Dance Archives there. The interwar years were a time for vivid
interest in dance, both in its ethnic and avant-garde forms: think the Russian
Ballet, Isadora Duncan or Joséphine Baker… European dance institutions were
invited to contribute with small-scale
models of dancers. The figures were to
be made of wire, dressed in regional costumes and holding the pose typical of specific
folk dances.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">What happened to those models after the 1937
exhibition ? The Dance Archives were
no longer active after the war. Rolf de Maré returned to Stockholm, where he
founded the Dance Museum. The models of Swedish dances were believed to have
been sent to that Museum, and the remaining ones handed over to the library at
the Paris Opera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">In the 1970s, a Polish folk dance researcher started
looking for those scale models. The Dance Museum in Stockholm replied that they
had no idea of their whereabouts. The Paris Opera confirmed that they had some
materials, such as posters, connected with the 1937 exhibition, but knew
nothing of the models. Nevertheless, the researcher made a visit to the Paris Opera.
While she was walking along the corridors of the Opera building, she saw small-scale
models of opera scenes and pointed out to the Opera staff accompanying her that
she was looking for that kind of models, mounted on pieces of wood. One member of
the staff then said: « We do have something under the roof, in the small
storage room ». And there she discovered not only the eight Polish models she
had initially set out to find, but a number of other ones. After years of discussion between French and
Polish institutions, this collection found a permanent home in the Ethnographic
Museum in Warsaw – and I cannot wait to
see it!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Here are a few of the models. Look with what care the
figures have been dressed in their regional costumes, meticulously embroidered,
decorated with tiny trims and miniature jewellery, with ribbons dancing to the
music…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Source : <i>Czas świętowania</i> (« Le temps des
fêtes » ; “Celebration time”), ed. A. Czyżewski ; Warszawa
2013<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-91916312364481807472017-10-20T14:39:00.000+02:002017-10-20T14:39:36.504+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Les broderies à Lviv</b></span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig1cnErMXcl4MzAGcL7krcuT-fdGnuV5gWPAmREoll0sfES-4CtlHPNBj2ZiN6ZrDZU9He-0X6VUaS-v0gtPyHjkZYJ4XL36KltTFGlBUvXC06coD8F1qu3wqmYu0kq0xF8c-W29vlhdU/s1600/DSCF8485.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig1cnErMXcl4MzAGcL7krcuT-fdGnuV5gWPAmREoll0sfES-4CtlHPNBj2ZiN6ZrDZU9He-0X6VUaS-v0gtPyHjkZYJ4XL36KltTFGlBUvXC06coD8F1qu3wqmYu0kq0xF8c-W29vlhdU/s320/DSCF8485.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">J’ai continué mon
exploration des broderies ukrainiennes récemment en visitant Lviv, en Ukraine
occidentale. Ici on se rend compte de la proximité des Carpathes et de ses
groupes ethniques comme les Hutsuls ou les Lemko. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un bijou spécifique de cette
région est la <i>kryvulka</i>, une sorte de
col en perles de rocaille. En voici une sur un mannequin au Musée
Ethnographique, et sa version moderne au marché d’artisanat !<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimmBYAYfRg8soVQJSKI79wCysV_ADMhxXOWA5ggy8D6v8cs8Vti2Zn28ZlQPejcnzLnllbfZC_bS3S2D4f8QunyzKy0V-cAh7etQp_EPdW1O-gz-OnAe4oYD1yurfFuDpnl8NaqSz6E1o/s1600/DSCF8469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimmBYAYfRg8soVQJSKI79wCysV_ADMhxXOWA5ggy8D6v8cs8Vti2Zn28ZlQPejcnzLnllbfZC_bS3S2D4f8QunyzKy0V-cAh7etQp_EPdW1O-gz-OnAe4oYD1yurfFuDpnl8NaqSz6E1o/s320/DSCF8469.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEismCux18PXfNtSqwJ520s5P8D8JsWK71Def7ToyXFKhG1S4u1q0q_nLthrn599xoMSrSFHYTTRrYWPhtHB-YA0yjzEFSZLLm-LhsLShAVZmHq9g5QCTdbZr3LpNUgtSSdK7WwwMRjctTg/s1600/DSCF8526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEismCux18PXfNtSqwJ520s5P8D8JsWK71Def7ToyXFKhG1S4u1q0q_nLthrn599xoMSrSFHYTTRrYWPhtHB-YA0yjzEFSZLLm-LhsLShAVZmHq9g5QCTdbZr3LpNUgtSSdK7WwwMRjctTg/s320/DSCF8526.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">L’intérêt des Ukrainiens voué
aux broderies traditionnelles semble très grand, à juger par la publication
récente de ce somptueux livre sur les chemises brodées ! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ElPvG6jMeWXkI25-ucSdS6a1ljp2s-pErwYaAD5GL3FJw7FTYRKsVwT7xiZXjB7TAL9Y5F67oZ3zKgq7dxq8r7Q37fExKwDq4WCef_7z1mCsGPenJV4X8V9srRwvv0Ro4Jm8nB0IKzg/s1600/DSCF8728.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ElPvG6jMeWXkI25-ucSdS6a1ljp2s-pErwYaAD5GL3FJw7FTYRKsVwT7xiZXjB7TAL9Y5F67oZ3zKgq7dxq8r7Q37fExKwDq4WCef_7z1mCsGPenJV4X8V9srRwvv0Ro4Jm8nB0IKzg/s320/DSCF8728.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un autre, tout aussi impressionnant,
vient de sortir et porte sur les coiffes.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHhssH1dTTEN-8ChB-S5yGNkj7JQVZNrohfPNz8Uvdy8LEUwjj2stFHptFJvTgKC4vMpRrPlhwlLIwYU6OSS-Fk_hEJlrIurwVucvbC4M6B-MATSNt1R3dxfInzfgEvdEYgPZUH5879XM/s1600/s-l1600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1587" data-original-width="1092" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHhssH1dTTEN-8ChB-S5yGNkj7JQVZNrohfPNz8Uvdy8LEUwjj2stFHptFJvTgKC4vMpRrPlhwlLIwYU6OSS-Fk_hEJlrIurwVucvbC4M6B-MATSNt1R3dxfInzfgEvdEYgPZUH5879XM/s320/s-l1600.jpg" width="220" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">J’ai eu l’occasion de visiter une
exposition – privée, au dernier étage d’une galerie de boutiques de luxe – où
j’ai pu voir ces corsages en lin ou en chanvre, richement brodés, ainsi que des
coiffes de mariées, faites avec des fleurs séchées ou en papier de soie, en
duvet d’oie ou avec des pompons de laine .<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On retrouve les broderies
folkloriques dans les vêtements quotidiens. Voici un pull que j’ai acheté qui
reprend la broderie hutsul, orange et géométrique, comme vous pouvez la voir
sur le bord de ce <i>rushnik </i>(serviette de cérémonie) brodé.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjipekw-JzjkwQqyT1JtCdQ2kRSxzpjZaItqWw-e3FdRhYcZ_rqKQROEa87zCX16H1vRwyJyLAfxAHVsKLualyN292y2VnZfoX-GdkCdDsfybotznaDEU2VZgksNMNjS5Xz4oUAm494RPE/s1600/DSCF8726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjipekw-JzjkwQqyT1JtCdQ2kRSxzpjZaItqWw-e3FdRhYcZ_rqKQROEa87zCX16H1vRwyJyLAfxAHVsKLualyN292y2VnZfoX-GdkCdDsfybotznaDEU2VZgksNMNjS5Xz4oUAm494RPE/s320/DSCF8726.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkMNQ68Lu8LvqlH1HD5WPOOfEvTlxuVqRo7UYK0YxCUPwdxGNe7nIpRUqaFpOGS-aTBubt5nzElz2ynaDXheqM_puxw92azjmgHN-AdveOaiS99ouIzGS0DLZWS-mhILjlBHC76tgbsrY/s1600/DSCF1927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkMNQ68Lu8LvqlH1HD5WPOOfEvTlxuVqRo7UYK0YxCUPwdxGNe7nIpRUqaFpOGS-aTBubt5nzElz2ynaDXheqM_puxw92azjmgHN-AdveOaiS99ouIzGS0DLZWS-mhILjlBHC76tgbsrY/s320/DSCF1927.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">J’ai trouvé deux </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 18.6667px;">anciens</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><i style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">kersetki</i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">, gilets pour femme.
L’une, de la région de Bucovine (près de la frontière avec la Roumanie), était
vendue dans l’entrée de l’exposition de broderie dont je vous ai parlée. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvq6hWFGujLQ6KiCnTz7WIvziSi0fCBtXn_bvZyF_Q9teSO9GORfpEaq6xBKQbLwuw4D4BVRzLiqMlgTUsxJAFMUsp9qLMM6hovBBYJoEJgUNbvTbt2mdcbH4dFtZ9v0fX-4Cw72MYGRw/s1600/DSCF8729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvq6hWFGujLQ6KiCnTz7WIvziSi0fCBtXn_bvZyF_Q9teSO9GORfpEaq6xBKQbLwuw4D4BVRzLiqMlgTUsxJAFMUsp9qLMM6hovBBYJoEJgUNbvTbt2mdcbH4dFtZ9v0fX-4Cw72MYGRw/s320/DSCF8729.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtaYaAicRiWI1lyMFaRNo0M8yTUzHXBYLomib3YQMSviPDk193peohznm_X-NZzQ3Z4fmET9DGkppvjjypP0L4L-kjU3N8xocaPQg347lq04HCa7r-7l8nZ9IfeQi5AHUOnsu4PawWZMg/s1600/DSCF8731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtaYaAicRiWI1lyMFaRNo0M8yTUzHXBYLomib3YQMSviPDk193peohznm_X-NZzQ3Z4fmET9DGkppvjjypP0L4L-kjU3N8xocaPQg347lq04HCa7r-7l8nZ9IfeQi5AHUOnsu4PawWZMg/s320/DSCF8731.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">L’autre, de la région de Lviv même, était une trouvaille au marché d’artisanat,
auprès de ce monsieur, habillé dans un </span><i style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">serdak</i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">
typique des Carpathes. Il vendait aussi d’anciens gilets en peau de mouton, richement
décorés non seulement avec des broderies, mais aussi avec les boutons
multicolores en plastique !</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn03l0E6glM_SU5p9DQuQ9fWQUKHzla5VwbxrM7f8r8xz7attwN4HeJdV8rVaeVO7MNl9h_qD6K98AqZpTgMjXvrxB-yeXDswdY5aYZTYtTyTGJRj3ZiCUf5s4l1OsQxVcdChCKjM3NdQ/s1600/DSCF8418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="890" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn03l0E6glM_SU5p9DQuQ9fWQUKHzla5VwbxrM7f8r8xz7attwN4HeJdV8rVaeVO7MNl9h_qD6K98AqZpTgMjXvrxB-yeXDswdY5aYZTYtTyTGJRj3ZiCUf5s4l1OsQxVcdChCKjM3NdQ/s320/DSCF8418.JPG" width="178" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Au même marché, je suis
tombée sur un kilim hutsul des années 1920, sur lequel on retrouve cette
prédilection pour les formes géométriques.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnVTaMxZBT3mb96BW5k7P05zRt6gfGr99YmzTsl8YxtLBc8xBeQMg8rzpw5BunpX1qBdj17eRUmxhRiArJv0otcVDLaggEmVA1vGdcS-zLzx-II27axPV3gyVIa2RVgJz_eZKN0A_XK1k/s1600/DSCF8675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1337" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnVTaMxZBT3mb96BW5k7P05zRt6gfGr99YmzTsl8YxtLBc8xBeQMg8rzpw5BunpX1qBdj17eRUmxhRiArJv0otcVDLaggEmVA1vGdcS-zLzx-II27axPV3gyVIa2RVgJz_eZKN0A_XK1k/s320/DSCF8675.JPG" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">J’ai aussi vu des objets
brodés dans un musée où je ne me l’attendais pas : le Musée de la lutte
pour l’indépendance retrace l’histoire de ce mouvement au cours du 20<sup>e</sup>
siècle. Une vitrine contient des travaux des femmes prisonnières : de
petites image brodées, des mouchoirs, des cartes de vœux, une collection
extrêmement touchante quand on pense dans quelles conditions ces pièces ont été réalisées.
Je n’ai pas pu les prendre en photo, mais j’ai retrouvé un de ces objets sur l’internet
avec le texte « souvenir de la prison 1949 ». </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglOUeNcX_JBerRm9Z00O8tyeox1ydhfn4fzfg_1v6O3LlXdVo7V03B1xUrCGBcX6vCqygiq0hGGwvPOLCCmBGungduPmZr2iSvOgtNfAoE7mDkbW1F71olgF6sB-gSU50MwVZkaM_DPkY/s1600/30baidak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglOUeNcX_JBerRm9Z00O8tyeox1ydhfn4fzfg_1v6O3LlXdVo7V03B1xUrCGBcX6vCqygiq0hGGwvPOLCCmBGungduPmZr2iSvOgtNfAoE7mDkbW1F71olgF6sB-gSU50MwVZkaM_DPkY/s320/30baidak.jpg" width="258" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ce qui veut dire que la
créativité peut être un réconfort dans des conditions bien difficiles.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Embroidery in Lviv</b></span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I recently visited Lviv in Western Ukraine and
continued my exploration of Ukrainian embroideries there. While in Lviv, I
became aware of the proximity to the Carpathian mountains, with their ethnic
groups such as the Hutsuls or the Lemkos. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One particular piece of jewellery
from that region is the <i>kryvulka</i>, a
kind of collar made of seed beads. Here’s one seen at the Ethnographic museum,
and its modern rendition at the craft market.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It seems that the Ukrainians have a very strong interest
in their traditional crafts, since glossy, impressive books on the subject
have recently been published, such as
this one on embroidered shirts; as well as another one, just as huge, on head
dresses. I had the opportunity to visit
an exhibition, which was a private one, at the top floor of a luxury shopping
mall, where I saw those linen or hemp shirts, richly embroidered, as well as
bridal head dresses, made of dried or paper flowers, goose down or woollen
pompoms.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Folk embroidery reappears on everyday garments. Here
is a sweatshirt I bought, which reuses Hutsul motifs, orange and geometrical,
as you can see from this embroidered <i>rushnik</i>
(ritual towel).<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik9P4uy54yPhr633FRiNKfsAjsNFWCd_26HfnCnC8erA7tRvixbio0Qq2C-EIc40y_5-7aGMsKCAmHc2jWwnNjzN1aD0hu8DCWhEkX1yMwjlaObZ6_UZ5gL-3KQf4kvgXzKCXk5odMejA/s1600/DSCF1927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik9P4uy54yPhr633FRiNKfsAjsNFWCd_26HfnCnC8erA7tRvixbio0Qq2C-EIc40y_5-7aGMsKCAmHc2jWwnNjzN1aD0hu8DCWhEkX1yMwjlaObZ6_UZ5gL-3KQf4kvgXzKCXk5odMejA/s320/DSCF1927.JPG" width="320" /></a><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I found two old <i>kersetki</i>,
women’s waistcoats. The first one, from the Bukovina region (near the Romanian
border), was for sale at the entrance of the embroidery exhibition I mentioned. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPSTsN3yJ0Am8MDHVVBlJ3UuU2ZQoqjEeHEcAWIbx9e86fMwLGpXR58qt0IlSkECCW40Dvbcwp8UwKFKgCl2Hp681I_i2vXtjqmCKeMt9t5o1rpXoht1a7r2ASsIwGaBf5BCAIwmOn88/s1600/DSCF8729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPSTsN3yJ0Am8MDHVVBlJ3UuU2ZQoqjEeHEcAWIbx9e86fMwLGpXR58qt0IlSkECCW40Dvbcwp8UwKFKgCl2Hp681I_i2vXtjqmCKeMt9t5o1rpXoht1a7r2ASsIwGaBf5BCAIwmOn88/s320/DSCF8729.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPc57cZpghYOpbt38LwFdTPRhYZ9kLHiiHg8cfCSYk1nynlyv9r20wRK39rm6_pikGQrEQPlOICBWCuWlWCFcWRMtn_yWAlynXXgzq-RGhTUqY7Kg8umQvUZ3YApkOhMj8Cpk2ydNwaCs/s1600/DSCF8731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPc57cZpghYOpbt38LwFdTPRhYZ9kLHiiHg8cfCSYk1nynlyv9r20wRK39rm6_pikGQrEQPlOICBWCuWlWCFcWRMtn_yWAlynXXgzq-RGhTUqY7Kg8umQvUZ3YApkOhMj8Cpk2ydNwaCs/s320/DSCF8731.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">The other one, from the Lviv region, was a find at the craft market, bought
from this gentleman wearing a </span><i style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">serdak</i><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">
typical of the Carpathian mountains.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi73s2mMYH5-L2ZCLRdCU_G6TP24qc_uCKKABOEG6DXqlBIL9qlJMTbEhLpnVZEc7Vfpjn3Z5nsNjIIGqd78GSfESMx17Hq0tkN1XRETmuXLV4gKbi0QWYrc-g76t65L4LUmbgWtH4xTn4/s1600/DSCF8418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="890" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi73s2mMYH5-L2ZCLRdCU_G6TP24qc_uCKKABOEG6DXqlBIL9qlJMTbEhLpnVZEc7Vfpjn3Z5nsNjIIGqd78GSfESMx17Hq0tkN1XRETmuXLV4gKbi0QWYrc-g76t65L4LUmbgWtH4xTn4/s320/DSCF8418.JPG" width="178" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> He also had for sale vintage sheepskin waistcoats, richly decorated not
only with embroideries, but also with multicoloured plastic buttons !<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At the same market I was lucky to find a Hutsul kilim
from the 1920s, which again shows their
preference for sharp geometric motifs.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There were more embroidered things at a museum where I
did not expect to find any: The Museum of the Independence Struggle tells the history
of that movement throughout the twentieth century. In a glass case , there are little objects
made by imprisoned women : small embroideried pictures, handkerchiefs, birthday
cards – a extremely touching collection when one considers in what conditions
these objects were made. I was not able to take pictures of them there, but I
found a picture of one of the objects on
the Internet with the text « memento of the prison, 1949 ». </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmpLe3xyWU7taqlFsvl1Kb7Qk7yv_pC5Zu5ZTeu4DsSYtQnBRNtPMQOpfDGkZcErNPBahoQr6E5BvbyZ_RWCEko6Gtn_4WqKO6SxLEStZYabSf8cLQljHAEx3dqpQZx4fe33l_LSsFmfc/s1600/30baidak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmpLe3xyWU7taqlFsvl1Kb7Qk7yv_pC5Zu5ZTeu4DsSYtQnBRNtPMQOpfDGkZcErNPBahoQr6E5BvbyZ_RWCEko6Gtn_4WqKO6SxLEStZYabSf8cLQljHAEx3dqpQZx4fe33l_LSsFmfc/s320/30baidak.jpg" width="258" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Which shows
that creativity may be a comfort in quite adverse conditions.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-1938564956701338122017-09-10T12:47:00.000+02:002017-09-10T12:47:07.202+02:00<span style="font-size: large;">Les roses du soleil</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZXet2j6fz7Zl-bK-lGJbt8lw8tw5aNF83QjbyjlMgYtpA_hXDalcA8h-LmG8kNVWySa7n0MQhgsPviNwzk81z_nwXdxmMyxwgtHtdrl1ru4-2KKCirn-75a2w-ZQP4-bVBPKVpyeJvaw/s1600/sunflowers-1208281_960_720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="960" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZXet2j6fz7Zl-bK-lGJbt8lw8tw5aNF83QjbyjlMgYtpA_hXDalcA8h-LmG8kNVWySa7n0MQhgsPviNwzk81z_nwXdxmMyxwgtHtdrl1ru4-2KKCirn-75a2w-ZQP4-bVBPKVpyeJvaw/s320/sunflowers-1208281_960_720.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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"Les roses du soleil" - <i>solrosor</i>, tel est le nom des tournesols en suèdois. Joli nom, n'est-ce pas? Et j'adore voir ces champs de soleils pendants mes voyages en été.<br />
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Il y a un an, j'ai visité Zalipie, le village en Pologne décoré aux fleurs peintes. J'avais ramené une petite planche à découper, peint dans le style local. Ce décor m'a servi de modèle de broderie sur une robe!</div>
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J'aime beaucoup la poterie portugaise en forme de fleurs et de légumes de toutes les couleurs. Voici un petit pot que j'ai rapporté de Cascais (bonjour, Paula!).</div>
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Le tournesol est la fleur de l'état de Kansas aux Etats-Unis. Dans les années 1930, il y avait un modèle de quilt assez courant avec des tournesols appliqués. Voici un quart ancien d'un tel quilt, trouvé là-bas. J'y ai ajouté un bord pour l'offrir aux minous de <a href="http://www.midwinteryarns.com/">Midwinter Yarns</a> dans leur nouvelle maison en Ecosse. Avant mon départ, il a été testé et approuvé par mon Améline Dentelle. Et comme vous voyez, Miss Poppy Midwinter l'a accepté, elle s'installe dessus pour contempler les moutons dans le prè d'en face.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV_cBcWYcmAFvGS0D2_eeBJxQArLHul5YNSsgeoZJZEp2iRnAePgl_nFR-_T7T7dlOjonc_7wESGGi5Far0OI-ccZFcXaUqcQ4BFX6p5bAVWp2UeGifceCmaA0RF3Ht9_q8c3_9_mCqcY/s1600/DSCF7884.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV_cBcWYcmAFvGS0D2_eeBJxQArLHul5YNSsgeoZJZEp2iRnAePgl_nFR-_T7T7dlOjonc_7wESGGi5Far0OI-ccZFcXaUqcQ4BFX6p5bAVWp2UeGifceCmaA0RF3Ht9_q8c3_9_mCqcY/s320/DSCF7884.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMzyN1BuWHhS4es_B_xM_nhxktjO16UMfsGlyA611F-NNsUTnWrcGuGhlNX2jB5K3hUHQHUWD21Lsn5ZU3LB-l8g0CEYaBsocB7w74Hp1f6qbx6pLtt2ljhqdnlPrZMyaDwYUyc3HHv9M/s1600/DSCF7890.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMzyN1BuWHhS4es_B_xM_nhxktjO16UMfsGlyA611F-NNsUTnWrcGuGhlNX2jB5K3hUHQHUWD21Lsn5ZU3LB-l8g0CEYaBsocB7w74Hp1f6qbx6pLtt2ljhqdnlPrZMyaDwYUyc3HHv9M/s320/DSCF7890.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI1cI-Q80plese9AmNfjYSR4Du0Vj4RNOvFeZnPJDw5nNWnHJp-zcdtb3T6Ndd0iQLT2D3c5vsCLlBy1YK4ewdBvz44QllbXqFTdJKYv56Ux7LJU4BnBALjxjEt3pYkAycPUsNvDBBnJ0/s1600/DSCF7891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI1cI-Q80plese9AmNfjYSR4Du0Vj4RNOvFeZnPJDw5nNWnHJp-zcdtb3T6Ndd0iQLT2D3c5vsCLlBy1YK4ewdBvz44QllbXqFTdJKYv56Ux7LJU4BnBALjxjEt3pYkAycPUsNvDBBnJ0/s320/DSCF7891.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcsTC4n01UNwMcIK_PvWsXQQDKw9RtT5EW2O_3aZJ4vR1yBZbluWofqdZhZsWMyZhUcL4HzVc8UCCLgUywdyntKtmv0fCf12BovaK3wdFT7CAatfh6NgUVSyKADvoK0b1nOVDiLezMkmk/s1600/DSCF7897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcsTC4n01UNwMcIK_PvWsXQQDKw9RtT5EW2O_3aZJ4vR1yBZbluWofqdZhZsWMyZhUcL4HzVc8UCCLgUywdyntKtmv0fCf12BovaK3wdFT7CAatfh6NgUVSyKADvoK0b1nOVDiLezMkmk/s320/DSCF7897.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Sun roses</span></div>
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"Sun roses" - <i>solrosor,</i> is the Swedish name for sunflowers. Isn't that pretty? I love seeing those vast fields of bright suns as I travel during the summer season.</div>
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A year ago, I visited the village of Zalipie in Poland, all decorated with painted flowers. I brought back a small cutting-board painted in the local style. I used it as a model for this embroidered dress.</div>
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I am very fond of Portuguese pottery in the shape of all kinds of colourful flowers and vegetables. Here's a small pot I brought back from Cascais (hello, Paula!)</div>
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The sunflower is the State flower of Kansas. In the 1930s, there was a popular quilt pattern with apppliqué sunflowers. I found one quarter of such an old quilt in the States. I added a binding to it and decided to give it as a housewarming present to the kitties of <a href="http://www.midwinteryarns.com/">Midwinter Yarns </a>after their move to Scotland. Before I left, my Améline Dentelle tested and approved it. And as you can see, Miss Poppy Midwinter has accepted the quilt, and sits on it while watching the sheep in the field across the road.</div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-29829967142440624812017-07-07T23:10:00.003+02:002017-07-07T23:10:57.270+02:00<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Les quilts gallois</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLMHss0P9gjGVO5SH-MCX4PgDE-YS7-q1OwBhMUUaba8DT4RClPKVRJJPthvKpqdukeNbAlEml1sezTtZh8kgXZ3mZ7X-34CdehTPzD-KEALujdsyYQkkC0DghB6UEmCiF1l99ou7UmLs/s1600/IMG_0118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="978" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLMHss0P9gjGVO5SH-MCX4PgDE-YS7-q1OwBhMUUaba8DT4RClPKVRJJPthvKpqdukeNbAlEml1sezTtZh8kgXZ3mZ7X-34CdehTPzD-KEALujdsyYQkkC0DghB6UEmCiF1l99ou7UmLs/s400/IMG_0118.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Peut-être étiez-vous en
avril dernier à Nantes, au salon <i>Pour l’amour
du fil</i> ? Dans ce cas-là, j’espère que vous n’avez pas raté
l’exposition des quilts anciens en provenance du Pays de Galles de la
collection Jen Jones. Je voudrais vous parler un peu de ces quilts, de Jen
Jones – et du Pays de Galles.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On a fabriqué des quilts
au Pays de Galles depuis au moins le début du XIXe siècle. Souvent, ils sont
construits en « médaillon » comme les patchworks typiques
anglais : un carré au milieu, souvent en un tissu plus précieux, entouré
d’un nombre de « cadres ». On rencontre aussi la forme
« strippy », c'est-à-dire en bandes de deux couleurs, comme dans le
Nord de l’Angleterre. Les patchworks exposés à Nantes, construits de centaines
de petits morceaux de tissus, étaient particulièrement impressionnants !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Des quilts faits à partir
de grands panneaux de laine, souvent en couleurs contrastées (rouge et noir par
exemple) constituent une autre catégorie. Certes, ils font penser aux quilts des
Amish de Pennsylvanie, mais aucune étude n’a pu démontrer l’influence d’une
population sur l’autre. On trouve aussi
beaucoup de quilts faits dans un seul tissu, souvent fleuri, et
merveilleusement matelassés. Le rembourrage est en général épais, car c’est une
région où il fait froid, et grâce à l’élevage de moutons, la laine y est
abondante !<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">J’ai dans ma collection
un patchwork aux couleurs pâles, tellement usé qu’on voit la couverture blanche
qui a servi de rembourrage. Néanmoins, les marques du beau matelassage sont
toujours bien lisibles.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A la fin des années 1920,
le Pays de Galles fût frappé par la Dépression. Une organisation, <i>The Rural Industries Bureau</i>, vint en aide
aux familles des mineurs et proposa aux femmes de matelasser des objets :
dessus de lit, couettes, robes de chambre, qui étaient ensuite achetés par des
hôtels et boutiques de luxe à Londres et ailleurs. Ces objets étaient
cousus en tissus unis de grande qualité (satin, soie).<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Jen Jones est une
américaine qui vit au Pays de Galles et qui a fait énormément pour promouvoir
la connaissance des quilts de son pays d’adoption. Grace à elle, il y a un
Quilt Centre dans la charmante ville de Lampeter, où elle monte chaque année
une exposition thématique autour de sa collection. Cette année, c’est justement
l’histoire des quilts de l’entre-deux-guerres qui y est exposée dans un cadre
Art Déco, et vous pouvez voir les photos professionnels en cliquant<span id="goog_1074850855"></span> <a href="http://www.welshquilts.com/exhibitions">ici</a><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Le musée a un certain
nombre de quilts en vente, mais vous en trouverez encore plus chez Jen qui
habite un joli cottage à quelques minutes de Lampeter – <a href="http://www.jen-jones.com/">voici le lien</a> :<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">J’y ai trouvé deux
patchworks fort intéressants, l’un du XIXe siècle, l’autre des années 1920. Les
deux sont du type « médaillon », et, ce qui est intéressant,
contiennent des échantillons de tissus, avec le même motif en plusieurs gammes
de couleurs différentes et, en plus, ils sont réversibles. Pour ce qui est du deuxième,
il semble que les tissus utilisés étaient de tout ce qu’on avait sous la main :
des échantillons de coton, des chutes de chemises et même de la doublure !<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Il faudrait aussi
mentionner les couvertures tissées galloises, qui sont aujourd’hui fort
convoitées par les collectionneurs. Le tissage et le choix de couleurs sont
superbes. Il y a particulièrement un modèle de tissage, » Tapestry »,
qui est très original. Notre amie suédoise <a href="http://linaoj.blogspot.fr/2017/05/a-dream-come-true.html">Lina</a> avait repéré une couverture de
ce modèle dans le film <i>Le Retour de Nanny MacPhee</i>, et elle fût aux anges quand
nous lui avions trouvé une couverture pareille chez Jen ! Si vous en avez
vu une sur ce blog récemment, c’est parce que mon chat Jaïpur était couché sur
la mienne….<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">J’ai tenu à vous parler
des quilts gallois aujourd’hui, car d’une manière, je dis au revoir à cette
région. Après presque six ans à Caerphilly, ma fille et son mari, de <a href="http://www.midwinteryarns.com/">MidwinterYarns</a>, déménagent vers d’autres Celtes, en Ecosse ! Un pays tout aussi
riche en traditions textiles que j’aurai hâte de découvrir, pour vous en parler
ensuite.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Welsh quilts</b></span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If by chance you visited the fair <i>Pour l’amour du fil</i> in Nantes last April, I hope you did not miss
the exhibition on Antique Welsh Quilts from Jen Jones’ collection. I would like
to talk a little about those quilts, about Jen Jones – and about Wales.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Quilts have been made in Wales since at least the beginning
of the nineteenth century. Often, they are of the “medallion” structure, like
typical English quilts: a square of more precious fabric in the middle,
surrounded by a number of « frames ». We also encounter the
« strippy », consisting of alternating bands of two different fabric,
similar to those found in the North of England. The patchwork quilts shown in
Nantes made up of hundreds of small pieces were particularly impressive!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Quilts made of large woollen pieces, often in contrasting
colours (for instance red and black) are another type. True, they bring to mind
the Amish quilts of Pennsylvania, but there is no proof of any influence of one
population on the other. We also find many wholecloth quilts, often floral
ones, beautifully quilted. The wadding is generally heavy, as Wales is a chilly
region. Thanks to sheep farming, there is no lack of wool. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In my collection, there is a pastel-coloured quilt,
the top so worn that you can see the white blanket inside it. However, the
traces of the wonderful quilting are still visible.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Wales was hit hard by the depression at the end of the
1920s. An organisation called <i>The Rural
Industries Bureau</i> launched a scheme in order to help miners’ families:
women received commissions to quilt various objects such as quilts, bedspreads
or dressing gowns, which were then bought by luxury hotels and shops in London
and elsewhere. These objects were made from high quality fabrics such as satin
or silk.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Jen Jones is an American lady who lives in Wales and has
devoted herself to promoting knowledge about the quilts of her second homeland.
She has set up a Quilt Centre in the charming town of Lampeter, where she organises
thematic exhibitions every year, based on her collection. This year, it is
precisely the story of the inter-war quilts which is shown in an Art Deco
setting, and you can view the professional photos <a href="http://www.welshquilts.com/exhibitions">here</a>.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There is a number of quilts for sale at the museum,
but you will find many, many more in Jen’s lovely cottage just a short drive
away from Lampeter – <a href="http://www.jen-jones.com/">here’s the link</a>:<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I found two very interesting patchwork quilts there,
one from the nineteenth century, the other one from the 1920s. Both have the
“medallion” structure and, what is interesting, contain a number of fabric
swatches, with the same pattern in different colourways. Moreover, they are
reversible! For the second one, the maker seems to have used any scrap within reach:
not only fabric samples, but also scraps from shirt making and even lining fabric!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I should also mention Welsh blankets, which today are
highly collectible, and no wonder, since the colours and the weaving patterns
are wonderful. There is particularly one weaving pattern « Tapestry »
which is extremely original. Our Swedish friend <a href="http://linaoj.blogspot.fr/2017/05/a-dream-come-true.html">Lina </a>had noticed a blanket with
this pattern in the movie <i>Nanny MacPhee and
the Big Bang</i>, and she was beside her with joy when we found a blanket for
her, just like that one, at Jen’s! If you think you’ve seen a blanket like that
on this blog recently, it was because my cat Jaipurr was stretched out on mine ….<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I wanted to tell you about Welsh quilts today, since I
am in a manner of speaking, about to “leave” this region. After almost six years
in Caerphilly, my daughter and her husband, of <a href="http://www.midwinteryarns.com/">Midwinter Yarns</a>, are moving to
another Celtic country, namely Scotland! Another country where textile traditions
abound, and I am eager to discover them and of course, I will tell you about
them.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;">merci à Philippe Warichet pour les photos de Nantes</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;">A lire/ To read: </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;">Jen Jones: Les quilts gallois/ Welsh Quilts, Quiltmania 2005</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;">Jen Jones: Welsh Qults, Seren 2016</span></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-67920129363944373472017-05-16T10:17:00.000+02:002017-05-16T10:18:21.891+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>L’Inde (toujours) dans mon cœur</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Depuis ma rentrée de
l’Inde il y a six semaines, j’ai toujours devant les yeux les broderies
scintillantes, les imprimés délicats, les jardins fleuris où les paons se
promènent, les paysages peuplés d’hommes et de femmes habillés de couleurs
vives : orange, fuchsia, vert émeraude…J’ai pu soigner cette nostalgie un
peu grâce à quelques évènements qui m’ont d’une certaine façon de nouveau rapprochée
de ce merveilleux pays.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">D’abord, le salon <i><a href="http://pourlamourdufil.com/"><span id="goog_808024947"></span>Pour l’amour du fil</a><span id="goog_808024948"></span></i> à Nantes fin avril,
où le thème cette année était »Boho-India ». J’y ai retrouvé plusieurs de
mes compagnons de voyage, ainsi que les vendeurs de patchworks anciens de Jodhpur
et les brodeurs Sham d’Agra, qui exposaient au salon. Pendant des heures j’ai
retourné les tas de patchworks chez Manesh (<i>Ganesh
Antiques</i>), vu que chaque pièce est diffèrente, puisqu’elles sont faites à
partir de saris anciens. Je suis rentrée avec trois belles couvertures, tout de
suite adoptés par mon nouveau chat Jaïpurr ! J’ai également acheté un
livre sur les patchworks Godharis, publié par Quiltmania.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">J’avais recommandé
l’atelier de broderie Sham à ma copine Paula qui s’y est mise avec enthousiasme et a
même gagné un prix, car elle avait fini sa fleur la première ! <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;">J’ai aussi craqué pour les imprimés indiens de Gujarat vendus par le magasin </span><i style="font-size: 18.6667px;"><a href="http://neelam.fr/">Neelam</a></i><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;"> et également quelques khadis….</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ensuite, je suis allée au
Pays de Galles via Londres. <i><a href="https://www.clothhouse.com/">The Cloth House</a></i> propose, entre autres tissus merveilleux, des khadis et des imprimés indiens…</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pour
ce qui est de vêtements imprimés légers, il y a en Grande Bretagne la chaîne de
magasins <i>East</i>, qui travaille avec <i>Anokhi</i>, l’entreprise indienne dont je
vous ai parlée plus haut. J’y ai donc trouvé quelques tuniques et vestes de la
même légèreté et aux dessins si fins qui m’avaient tant impressionnée en Inde.
L’enseigne pour leur nouveau rayon enfant m’a bien fait rire !<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Comme la plupart de
villes en Grande-Bretagne compte une forte population indienne, les magasins de
provision indiens se trouvent dans chaque quartier. J’ai donc sans difficulté retrouvé quelques
produits de la gamme de cosmétiques « Himalaya », et je n’ai pas pu
résister aux mélanges d’épices avec ce monsieur enturbanné sur l’emballage
!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Une fois rentrée à Paris,
je suis allée à la Foire de Paris où il y avait un certain nombre de stands
indiens, leur rayons mercerie avec des galons aussi scintillants que ceux
de Kinari Bazar à Dehli… J’ai décidé que pour le temps variable qu’on a en
ce moment, rien de mieux que de vestes matelassées !<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Et à la maison, j’essaye
de cuisiner quelques recettes indiennes de ce livre qu’une amie m’a offert en sachant
bien ce qui me ferait plaisir. Et j’ai également décidé de récréer un peu de couleurs
indiennes au balcon !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiSJ2W38s2alkCLi-gH25OClsxLMF3Og-1alvNQ-oHvag3yOoTxOChx0kXu1SrlnqVLwuC_kQQekOITV_L2e0lrPMUXMFvdDMKv7x9oZn477O1s0UCfDuQkfyJ-4WPOV_H4ibtRTj8KXs/s1600/IMG_0144+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiSJ2W38s2alkCLi-gH25OClsxLMF3Og-1alvNQ-oHvag3yOoTxOChx0kXu1SrlnqVLwuC_kQQekOITV_L2e0lrPMUXMFvdDMKv7x9oZn477O1s0UCfDuQkfyJ-4WPOV_H4ibtRTj8KXs/s320/IMG_0144+%25281%2529.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>India on my mind</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Since my return from India six weeks ago, I can still
see in my mind’s eye the glittering embroideries, the fine printed cottons, the
gardens in bloom with peacocks walking around, and the landscapes with men and
women dressed in flamboyant colours such as orange, emerald green, fuchsia…I
have been able to cure that nostalgia a bit thanks to a couple of events that
have in some way brought that marvellous country closer again.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 115%;">(merci Philippe Warichet pour cette photo!)</span><br />
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">First, there was the craft show <i><a href="http://pourlamourdufil.com/">Pour l’amour du fil</a></i> in Nantes. This year’s theme was “Boho-India”. At
the show, I met a few of my travelling companions, as well as the vendors of
antique patchwork quilts from Jodhpur, and the Sham embroiderers from Agra,
both taking part in the show. I spent hours turning Manesh’s (<i>Ganesh Antiques</i>) piles of quilts upside
down, in order to have a look at them all; since each one, made from old saris,
is different! Finally, I took home three beautiful quilts, much appreciated by
my new cat Jaipurr! I also bought a book on Godhari quilts, published by
Quiltmania.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I had recommended the Sham embroidery workshop to a
friend who got down to it with enthusiasm, so much that she won first prize,
since she was the first one to finish her flower! I also stopped to admire… and
buy… some printed cottons from Gujarat and khadis sold by <i><a href="http://neelam.fr/">Neelam</a></i>.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Later, I went on a trip to Wales, stopping in London. <i><a href="https://www.clothhouse.com/">The Cloth House</a></i> sells, among many
wonderful fabrics, Indian khadis and printed cottons …</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As for light printed
garments, you can find them at the shop chain <i>East</i>, working with <i>Anokhi, </i>the Indian company I have mentioned earlier. So,
I found some tunics and jackets, all just as lovely light-weight and delicately
printed as those that had impressed me so in India. And the sign for their new
children’s department made me laugh!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As most British towns have a large Indian population,
there are Indian groceries all over the place. So, I had no difficulty in
finding cosmetic products from the « Himalaya » brand, and I could
not resist getting spice mixes with this turban-wearing gentleman on the box!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Back in Paris, I went to <i>Foire de Paris</i> (an enormous show with, among others, a « Things
from the whole world » section), where there were several Indian stalls,
their haberdashery sections glittering just as much as the ribbons and trims at
Kinari Bazar in Dehli… I decided that with this changing weather we are having,
quilted jackets are the very thing!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And at home, I
am trying out some recipes from this book a friend gave me, knowing it would be
just what I wanted. Oh, and I have decided to put some Indian colour to my
balcony !<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-865476232306540332017-04-20T19:59:00.000+02:002017-04-20T19:59:25.508+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Namaste! (4)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Et puis il y avait le shopping……</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La mercerie au Kinari Bazar à Dehli ; les tissus
à Ahmedabad et à Udaipur dont je vous ai déjà parlés. En plus, il y avait le
bazar à Jaipur, tout un quartier de magasins de vêtements et de tissus. J’y ai
trouvé encore des tissus pour ma fille, ainsi qu’une <i>kurta</i> (longue chemise) pour le gendre. Et pour moi-même, les
boucles d’oreilles en forme de clochettes ! Elles étaient devenues la mode
dans le groupe, ainsi que les <i>churi</i>
(bracelets rigides) que certaines copines collectionnaient à chaque arrêt !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">J’ai déjà parlé du Musée Anokhi, mais il y avait aussi
les magasins Anokhi, à Delhi, à Jaipur,
remplis de tuniques et de robes légères de toutes les couleurs !</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Et à
Ahmedabad nous avons trouvé des saris anciens, assez lourds car brochés de fil
d’or !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dans une petite rue commerçante à Dungarpur, il y
avait un modeste magasin de tissus comme il y en a sûrement des milliers en
Inde…. Mais quel choix ! Avec beaucoup d’auto-discipline, je me suis
arrêtée sur ces quelques morceaux de coton à petits motifs.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Et puis les joaillers à Agra… Comment quitter l’Inde
sans s’offrir un petit rubis ou une émeraude ?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Chez Ganesh Antiques à Jodhpur, nous avons passé
quelques heures à choisir nos cadeaux parmi les centaines de pashmina. Mais le
plus grand régal étaient les patchworks anciens, faits de morceaux de coton
cousus ensemble de manière complètement aléatoire, où chaque côté réserve des
surprises ! Il y a aussi des foulards de soie faits avec la même technique
et matelassés, ou merveilleusement brodées…Un immense plaisir à fouiller parmi
tous ces trésors et ensuite se reposer avec un thé masala.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Je dois dire que les termes employés pour les
couvertures et foulards matelassés – <i>gudari, kantha</i> – m’ont laissée un peu
perplexe. Je connaissais le terme « kantha » pour les couvertures,
que Ganesh Antiques appelait « gudari », le terme
« kantha » étant réservé pour les foulards quiltés. Au Calico Museum,
on a expliqué que les « kantha » étaient des quilts blancs rebrodés
en provenance du Bengale… J’espère donc que ce livre que j’ai ramené m’éclaircira sur ce point !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mais il y avait aussi un patchwork que j’ai dû laisser
sur place, faute de ne pas pouvoir me faire comprendre :au marché couvert
d’Ahmedabad, j’ai vu ce patchwork, mis à l’envers, qui couvraient un tas de
noix de coco. En vain, j’ai cherché à expliquer que je voulais l’acheter. Quelle
frustration pour moi la linguiste. J’ai dû me contenter des photos (soupir).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Voilà un très bref aperçu de ce merveilleux voyage.
Restent les photos, les objets, les moments vécus…..Et énormément d’inspiration !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Namaste! (4)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And then there was
the shopping….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I have already
told you about the haberdashery at Kinari Bazar in Dehli, about the cotton
fabric in Ahmedabad and Udaipur. Moreover, there was the bazar in Jaipur,
several streets with clothes and fabric shops. I found more cotton fabric
there, this time for my daughter, as well as a <i>kurta</i> (long shirt) for the son-in-law. Oh, and for myself, earrings
shaped like little tinkle bells! They became quite the fashion among the group,
which was also the case of the <i>churi</i>
(bangles) which some friends collected at every stop!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I have already mentioned
Anokhi Museum, but there were also the Anokhi shops in Delhi and Jaipur, full
of feather-light tunics and dresses in all the colours of the rainbow! And in
Ahmedabad we found vintage saris, rather heavy because of all the golden thread
woven into them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In a small shopping street in Dungarpur we saw
a modest fabric shop, and there are probably
thousands like that all over India. But what a choice! With a great deal of
self-restraint, I left with these pieces of patterned cotton.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And then the jewellers in Agra… How can you
leave India without getting a small ruby or emerald?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We spent a few
hours at Ganesh Antiques in Jodhpur, choosing presents among hundreds of
pashminas. However, the greatest treat were the vintage patchwork quilts, made
of cotton pieces quilted together in a completely random way, where each side
brings a new surprise as you open them! There are also silk scarves made in the
same way, held together with a running stich, or beautifully embroidered… What
a pleasure it was to rummage through all these treasures and then rest, sipping
a masala tea.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I must say that
the terms used for the quilted bedspreads and scarves - <i>gudari, kantha</i> – left me somewhat perplexed. I was familiar with
the term “kantha” for the quilts that Ganesh Antiques called “gudaris”, keeping
the term “kantha” for the quilted silk scarves. At the Calico Museum, the
information had been that “kanthas” were quilts with a white base and coloured embroidery,
originating from Bengal… I hope this book that I bought will make it clearer
to me!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And yet, there was
a patchwork coverlet that I had to leave behind, because I could not make
myself understood. At the indoor market in Ahmedabad, I saw this patchwork
piece, wrong side up, covering a heap of coconuts. I tried in vain to explain
that I wanted to buy it. What a frustrating experience for the language person
I am. I had to be contented with some pictures (sigh).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Well, this was a
quick report on a most wonderful trip. What remains are the photos, the objects,
the moments worth remembering…. And an enormous lot of inspiration!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-49661873843795416082017-04-20T09:21:00.000+02:002017-04-20T09:21:12.796+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Namaste! (3)</span></div>
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<o:p></o:p><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nous n’avons pas seulement admiré les arts textiles indiens,
mais avons également tenté de créer les nôtres au cours de plusieurs
ateliers :<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A Jaipur, nous avons appris l’impression au tampon au
Musée Anokhi. Le lendemain, nous sommes allées à Bagru, un village à une
trentaine de kilomètres de Jaipur, entièrement dominé par la teinture du coton
et l’impression à la planche : il y a une multitude d’ateliers où on
taille les tampons dans le bois (le teck est le bois le plus utilisé), où on
teint les tissus et où on les imprime. Ensuite, ces merveilleux tissus que nous
retrouvons dans les magasins chics du monde entier commencent leur vie par sécher
dans des champs, parmi les chèvres et les vaches ! Nous avons passé une matinée
à imprimer du tissu à la planche. Hmm, je crois que je me suis fait un paréo
pour cet été !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Et puis il y avait la broderie au crochet. Elle exige
beaucoup de dextérité à manier un crochet très fin, attraper un fil doré, et ensuite,
poser des perles et des paillettes à l’aide d’un fil encore plus fin !
C’est dire que mon résultat était…moyen, tandis que certaines copines, surtout
celles qui avaient fait de la broderie de Lunéville, avançaient rapidement avec
le sourire aux lèvres. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A Agra, nous avons passé une matinée très agréable
chez les brodeurs Sham – une broderie aux fils d’or et de soie, avec
l’incorporation de pierres semi-précieuses. La technique – broderie à l’aiguille,
point de boulogne et points lancés – nous était familière. A la fin du cours,
le maître nous a remis des diplômes, bien mérités !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;">(dernière photo:merci à Philippe Warichet)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Namaste 3<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We not only
admired beautiful Indian textile arts, but tried
our hand at making our own </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 18.6667px;">at several workshops</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">:</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In Jaipur, we
learned printing with simple blocks at the Anokhi Museum. The next day, we went
to Bagru, a village some 30 kilometres away from Jaipur, which is entirely
dominated by cotton printing. There is a
multitude of workshops where blocks are carved from wood (usually teak), where
cotton is dyed and block printed. Afterwards, these marvellous textiles which you see in elegant shops all over the
world start their life drying</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> in fields where goats and cows roam! We spent a
morning printing fabric with large blocks. Hmm, I think I got myself a sarong for this summer!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And then there was
crochet embroidery. It takes a lot of
skill to handle a very fine crochet hook, catch the golden thread, and then fix
beads and sequins with an even finer silver thread. I must admit that my result
was … so-so, while some of my friends, who had learnt Lunéville embroidery, made
rapid progress, a smile on their faces.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In Agra, we spent
a pleasant morning with the Sham embroiderers who taught us their art: embroidery with golden thread and padded silk stitches, with the addition of
semi-precious stones. The technique is needle embroidery with couching and
satin stitch, which we already were familiar with. At the end of the class we
were rewarded with diplomas!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-67604356949048980332017-04-19T20:48:00.001+02:002017-04-19T20:48:44.277+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Namaste ! (2)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Et voici quelques-uns des lieux que nous avons visités,
particulièrement intéressants du point de vue textile :<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A Dehli: Kinari Bazar, une ruelle avec des douzaines
de magasins proposant des galons, des fils, des perles et des paillettes. Le
tout très brillant – nous sommes bien dans le pays de Bollywood !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A Ahmedabad: le Calico Museum – une collection
époustouflante de cotons imprimés, les plus anciens datant du quinzième siècle,
et de bouts de cotons provenant de fouilles archéologiques. Les photos ne sont
pas permises dans le musée, mais un peut toujours acheter un livre dans leur librairie… Dans la
même ville se trouve l’ashram de Mahatma Gandhi, où on commémore son habitude
de filer du coton à la main, en signe de protestation contre la domination britannique
de l’industrie du coton en Inde. Une jeune personne y file du coton sur le même
type de rouet que celui utilisé par Gandhi ; le fil est ensuite tissé en
un tissu nommé <i>khadi</i>, uni ou à rayures.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A Udaipur, il y a tout un quartier de boutiques
d’artisanat populaire. Celui où nous nous sommes arrêtées (Albeli) proposait,
entre autres, des objets brodés anciens de toute sorte, des morceaux récupérés sur
des vêtements usés, et également, du coton imprimé au mètre d’une légèreté et
d’une douceur incroyable !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A Jaipur, il y a le musée Anokhi, retraçant l’histoire
de l’impression sur coton et celle de l’entreprise, fondée par des hippies
occidentaux dans les années 1960 ; hmmm… ce que me rappelle que c’était en
1970 que j’ai acheté ma première tunique indienne, à Londres…..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">(dernière photo: merci à Béatrice Compagnon)</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Namaste ! (2)<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Here are a few places
of particular interest to textile aficionados:<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In Dehli, Kinari
Bazar: a narrow street with dozens of haberdashery shops, offering trims, </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 18.6667px;">embroidery </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">floss, beads and sequins. It is all very sparkling - we are in Bollywood country,
to be sure!</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In Ahmedabad, the
Calico Museum – a stunning collection of printed cotton cloth, some of the pieces
dating back as far as the fifteenth century, and cotton fragments from archaeological
sites. Photography is not allowed in the museum, but you can always buy a book in their shop … In the same town, you can visit Mahatma Gandhi’s ashram. Among other things, it
continues Gandhi’s habit of spinning cotton manually, which he did in protest
to the British domination of the Indian cotton industry. A young person is seen
spinning cotton on the same type of spinning wheel as that used by Gandhi; the
yarn is then woven into a fabric called <i>khadi</i>,
either solid or striped.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In Udaipur, there
is a whole district of craft shops. The one we stopped at (Albeli) stocked,
among other goods, all sorts of vintage embroidered pieces, and salvaged
fragments of garments. There is also printed cotton on the bolt to be had,
incredibly light and soft.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In Jaipur, the
Anokhi museum retraces the history of cotton printing and that of the company,
founded in the 1960s by western hippies; hmmm… that reminded that it was in 1970
that I bought my first Indian tunic, in London….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-71610194407017399962017-04-19T15:06:00.001+02:002017-04-19T15:06:35.072+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Namaste ! (1)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Je reviens d’un voyage en Inde du Nord, organisé par <a href="http://les-fils-de-mirabai.fr/">Les fils de Mirabai</a><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span id="goog_966076608"></span></a> et ciblé sur un public obsédé par les textiles ! Et l’Inde,
c’est vraiment le pays du textile –les mots français comme <i>cachemire</i>, <i>pashmina</i>, <i>pyjama</i> et <i>châle</i> sont tous d’origine indienne. Ah oui, et les »indiennes »
- ces tissus de coton imprimés de petits motifs fleuris, à la mode depuis le
dix-huitième siècle– c’est à l’Inde que nous les devons !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Il suffit de se promener en ville ou de parcourir le
paysage indien pour être frappé par les couleurs vives des vêtements des
Indiens. Le <i>sari</i> est un vêtement fait
d’un tissu long de cinq mètres environ, astucieusement drapé autour du corps.
Il est originaire du sud du pays. Traditionnellement, dans le nord, les femmes
portaient des jupes amples et des vestes courtes. Aujourd'hui, c’est la mode du
<i>kameez</i> et du <i>salwar</i> – une tunique longue par-dessus un pantalon serré aux
chevilles - qui prévaut, surtout parmi les jeunes. Cet ensemble a son origine
dans la région du Punjab, dans le nord-ouest du pays.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;">Nous avons rencontré une famille Sikh: les Sikhs croyants portent toujours des turbans, et les bébés garçons ont droit à un petit foulard qui couvre les cheveux noués en chignon (les Sikhs ne se coupent jamais les cheveux). D'ailleurs, la visite du temple Sikh était fort impressionnante avec la musique, les fleurs en profusion et le riche décor doré.</span></span></div>
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(dernière photo: Philippe Warichet)</div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;">Namaste !(1)</span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">I have just come
back from a trip to India, organised by the French tour operator </span><a href="http://les-fils-de-mirabai.fr/" style="font-size: 14pt;">Les fils de Mirabai</a><span style="font-size: 14pt;">,
targeting people obsessed by textiles! India is the textile country </span><i style="font-size: 14pt;">par excellence</i><span style="font-size: 14pt;">: think of English words
such as </span><i style="font-size: 14pt;">cashmere, pashmina, pyjamas,
jodhpurs, calico</i><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> or </span><i style="font-size: 14pt;">shawl</i><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> – all
of Indian origin!</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Just take a stroll
around town or a drive through the countryside and you will be struck by
the lively colours the Indians wear. The
<i>sari</i> is a garment made of around five
metres of fabric, skilfully draped around the body. Its origin is southern
India. Traditionally, women in the north wore gathered skirts together with short
jackets. Nowadays, it is the <i>kameez</i>
with a <i>salwar</i> that is most
fashionable, especially among the younger generation: a long tunic worn over
trousers tight-fitting at the ankles. This outfit has its origin in the north-western
province of Punjab. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We met a Sikh family: religious Sikhs always wear turbans, and baby boys get a headscarf which covers their growing hair tied in a knot: the Sikh never cut their hair. Besides, our visit to a Sikh temple was a glorious experience of music, sweet-smelling flowers and a rich gilded interior.</span></div>
Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-4569968259948701552017-03-09T14:19:00.001+01:002017-03-09T14:19:52.745+01:00<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>Les gilets de Szczawnica</b></span></div>
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<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiehIFw86OsKw_9byWnzL5oRTqbD8lzVxgmxE024CZQbQxPUIPklJWAY1Pv1-VCfeJ99okne0PeUGDi9clCshdsw6pb-pm2Hd7V12GND3Lf58PnNM4fBiLrYBJzzjnk8i_iiGnubPhHPa0/s1600/DSCN6303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiehIFw86OsKw_9byWnzL5oRTqbD8lzVxgmxE024CZQbQxPUIPklJWAY1Pv1-VCfeJ99okne0PeUGDi9clCshdsw6pb-pm2Hd7V12GND3Lf58PnNM4fBiLrYBJzzjnk8i_iiGnubPhHPa0/s320/DSCN6303.JPG" width="173" /></a></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Au Festival folklorique
de Cracovie, j’ai vu ce monsieur portant un gilet bleu royal, richement brodé.
Il faisait peut-être partie d’un groupe de danse. J’ai appris que c’était le
costume du village de Szczawnica au sud de la Pologne, dont la principale
attraction est la descente en radeau le long du fleuve Dunajec. Comme ailleurs
dans les régions montagneuses polonaises (Zakopane par exemple), les hommes
portent volontiers leur costume régional pour faire plaisir aux touristes. Plus
il y a de broderies, plus le propriétaire paraît riche !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEu9LZjXj72Frs8SRPdWuAwb_3dvLSKW-p9M8bcmM5f0dG4VZYZsN5QaTuMZQwfenl_XNLiQb4eDdLE4AEemzUREdGX-UiI1q_WtPK19qTjCdpvGfSizhV6X3d0JdCZ826AvKXt-1ARJc/s1600/polski-splyw-dunajcem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEu9LZjXj72Frs8SRPdWuAwb_3dvLSKW-p9M8bcmM5f0dG4VZYZsN5QaTuMZQwfenl_XNLiQb4eDdLE4AEemzUREdGX-UiI1q_WtPK19qTjCdpvGfSizhV6X3d0JdCZ826AvKXt-1ARJc/s320/polski-splyw-dunajcem.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Malheureusement, on ne
peut pas acheter ces gilets autre part qu’a village de Szczawnica, même pas à
Cracovie avec son festival folklorique et ses maintes boutiques des produits
artisanaux. Mais un jour… j’ai vu ce gilet dans une boutique aux Puces de Saint
Ouen à Paris ! En regardant de plus près, j’ai vu qu’il avait des pinces ,
c’était donc un vêtement pour femme adapté d’un costume traditionnel.
L’étiquette à l’intérieur me le confirmait : la coopérative artisanale
Cepelia avait dans les années 1970-1980 une section nommée « Moda i
Styl » qui essayait de vendre aux Polonaises des vêtements basés sur leurs
costumes régionaux, et ainsi détourner leur attention de la mode occidentale,
coûteuse et souvent inatteignable. Je ne pense pas qu’ils aient eu beaucoup de
succès avec cette idée-là. C’étaient plutôt les visiteuses d’Europe occidentale
qui en étaient les clientes, pour rapporter une touche originale à leur garde-robe.
Une Parisienne avait peut-être acheté ce gilet-là lors d’un voyage en Pologne,
et après des années, il a continué son chemin. Malheureusement trop petit pour
que je le porte, mais quel modèle pour les broderies !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><b>Waistcoats from Szczawnica</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">While visiting the Cracow Folklore Festival, I spotted
a man wearing a richly embroidered royal blue waistcoat. He might have belonged
to a dance ensemble. I learned that this was the costume of the village of
Szczawnica in southern Poland. The main attraction there is the trip down the
river Dunajec on rafts. The men in charge of the rafts usually wear their
regional costume – the more embroidered it is, the richer the wearer. As in
other mountain districts in Poland
(Zakopane for instance), men are keen to wear their traditional costume in
order to impress the tourists.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIYywSXAO2Tx7ltJZsBaNznOGBjz2uiLY318s3XTBnC8y8uSlxKOl6V8dCRLJ3K_yBx1xXwweSe3ZVGl46vDpgiupX-A4DDZ1u3MoC5WuagZ9HCfwC0X_2xTjinuDIS4YNOzKBBSRBtsM/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIYywSXAO2Tx7ltJZsBaNznOGBjz2uiLY318s3XTBnC8y8uSlxKOl6V8dCRLJ3K_yBx1xXwweSe3ZVGl46vDpgiupX-A4DDZ1u3MoC5WuagZ9HCfwC0X_2xTjinuDIS4YNOzKBBSRBtsM/s320/1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Unfortunately, you cannot buy these waistcoats outside
the village of Szczawnica, not even in Cracow with its Folklore Festival, nor
in its many handicraft shops. But one day…. I saw this waistcoat in a
second-hand shop at the Paris flea market of Saint Ouen. When looking closer, I noticed that it had darts
– it was a woman’s waistcoat adapted from a regional costume. The label inside
confirmed this: the handicraft cooperative Cepelia ran, in the years 1970-1980,
a section called “Moda i Styl”, which endeavoured to sell to Polish women
clothes based on their regional costumes and thus draw their attention away
from Western fashion which was expensive and often unattainable. I do not think
their idea was very successful; it was rather women visitors from western
Europe who were their customers, thus adding an original touch to their
wardrobe. Perhaps a Parisian girl bought this waistcoat when traveling in
Poland. After some years, the waistcoat moved on. Unfortunately, it is too
tight for me to wear, but what an inspiration for embroideries to come!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-2352233904103779232017-02-28T21:08:00.000+01:002017-02-28T21:08:42.560+01:00<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>Inspirée par le village
fleuri<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBWZwUVsX0D1nPiocqpp3JAe85ftxwkAMQoVrwj6R6QnneX7_ZD-jwYI4vZ7MqYv3lxkZb-oQEKOO2wQ5hFIv_2BPeotC7-TxzB8gjMBB0NSJhLApsndRgYPft9GzhfFIi02jC-gdjpw/s1600/DSCF5567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><b><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBWZwUVsX0D1nPiocqpp3JAe85ftxwkAMQoVrwj6R6QnneX7_ZD-jwYI4vZ7MqYv3lxkZb-oQEKOO2wQ5hFIv_2BPeotC7-TxzB8gjMBB0NSJhLApsndRgYPft9GzhfFIi02jC-gdjpw/s320/DSCF5567.JPG" width="320" /></b></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">L’été dernier, je vous ai
parlé d’un village en Pologne nommé Zalipie, où toutes les maisons sont peintes
en fleurs. La plupart des décorations sont polychromes, mais il arrive également
qu’on utilise seulement du blanc ou du gris, en souvenir des premières années
de cette mode, quand les habitantes du village n’avaient à leur disposition que
de la suie diluée dans du lait, ou de la chaux. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Voici une niche de chien
qui a inspiré cette broderie en laines blanche et gris clair. Le tissu de la
jupe et un tweed tissé à la main au <a href="http://www.cambrianmill.co.uk/">Pays de Galles</a>.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>Inspiration from the village in bloom<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Last summer I told you about my visit to Zalipie, a
village in southern Poland where all the houses are decorated with floral
motifs. Most of these painted flowers are multi-coloured, but sometimes only
white or grey is used, as a nod to the beginnings of this trend, when the
inhabitants only had at their disposal soot diluted with milk, or lime.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Here is a kennel
which was the inspiration for this embroidery in white and light grey wool. The
fabric from which the skirt is made is a hand-woven <a href="http://www.cambrianmill.co.uk/">Welsh tweed</a>.</span>Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-20707270280934071982017-01-29T21:56:00.002+01:002017-01-29T21:56:55.625+01:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>Ceci n’est pas une
broderie russe (2)</b></span></div>
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<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkdjHNSZBNOV3nRejk8Gojz50fGDb-yn2ojYERyhbSbNx9vARxborNGe7G7cwqL2ciz5hVC-2PFDQYOxGCFqqngSsWsortWfgBem8oTh9Ksk-_2YPqgpqcsT4tgpREWtOhNMb0adSyskA/s1600/DSCF5289.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkdjHNSZBNOV3nRejk8Gojz50fGDb-yn2ojYERyhbSbNx9vARxborNGe7G7cwqL2ciz5hVC-2PFDQYOxGCFqqngSsWsortWfgBem8oTh9Ksk-_2YPqgpqcsT4tgpREWtOhNMb0adSyskA/s320/DSCF5289.JPG" width="320" /></a></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Voici une autre série de motifs - </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 18.6667px;">ni broderie, ni russe - </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">sur lesquels je suis
tombée en faisant des recherches</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">de « broderie
russe » sur certains sites. S’il vous
semble les avoir vus récemment, c’est parce que Marie Claire Idées les avaient
inclus sous leur thème de « Noël russe ».</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En fait, il s’agit de découpages polonais, WYCINANKI,
faits avec de gros ciseaux dans du papier glacé, un ornement traditionnel de la
région de Łowicz. Les motifs sont surtout des fleurs et des coqs, ainsi que des
scènes de la vie champêtre. On les trouve, collés sur du carton et encadrés,
dans des magasins d’artisanat populaire en Pologne ; il y en avait aussi
une belle collection dans le regretté Musée d’arts et traditions populaires à
Paris.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ces dernières années, ces découpages sont sortis de
leurs cadres et ont été reproduits sur des serviettes, des bloc-notes, comme
porte-clés en matière plastique, comme des rubans et, curieusement, sur cette
robe d’une marque anglaise ; et
même sur la queue d’un appareil de British Airways. Il y a aussi une prolifération de cabochons
avec ces motifs, en voici un monté en collier que j’ai acheté à Royan l’été dernier. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><b>This is not
Russian embroidery (2)</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Here’s another
series of motifs that I found when searching “Russian embroidery” on certain
sites – neither Russian, nor embroidery. You might have seen them recently if
you read Marie Claire Idées, where they appeared under the heading “Russian
Christmas”. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Actually, these
are Polish cut-outs called WYCINANKI. The motifs are cut out in glossy coloured paper using coarse
scissors. They are part of the many colourful traditions of the region of Łowicz.
The most frequent motifs are flowers and roosters, as well as scenes of country life. You can find them,
glued to cardboard and framed, in most souvenir shops all over Poland. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizlT6N7I2huOO3COL-APipxgxSwKSSZm6KGiBOZMBAWrYu4p-Mja9ZFQDWKBRsInqXzduH9JHCQiUxpPgEIeFHhAj4dwvIBEbUNRQTcTHHky3yy-hrtY7Ci2X4grlv5Yt9SGzOlhA3xHQ/s1600/DSCF5457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="174" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizlT6N7I2huOO3COL-APipxgxSwKSSZm6KGiBOZMBAWrYu4p-Mja9ZFQDWKBRsInqXzduH9JHCQiUxpPgEIeFHhAj4dwvIBEbUNRQTcTHHky3yy-hrtY7Ci2X4grlv5Yt9SGzOlhA3xHQ/s320/DSCF5457.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">In recent years,
these motifs have stepped out of their frames. They have been reproduced on paper napkins, note-pads, in plastic as keyrings, on ribbons and curiously, as a print on this dress by an English brand
(White Stuff), and even on the tail of a British Airways airplane. There are
also numerous cabochons with these motifs, such as one made up as a necklace which I bought last summer in
the French seaside resort of Royan.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio32AfqTLBh_ow1PSgpRwO7ROYanui-33wx4iCjwcKFVD9ubtbrE2xWrXtjqsfDXbz8wn2rCZKVcuMp0FkbjtX4SuPDnhPpxqNE0F9dA5BilD_h3Kiy-1e2rELBxehcFVAIX0wMrlNn7s/s1600/1ffb3ad55622b0850f73b38899cbd938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio32AfqTLBh_ow1PSgpRwO7ROYanui-33wx4iCjwcKFVD9ubtbrE2xWrXtjqsfDXbz8wn2rCZKVcuMp0FkbjtX4SuPDnhPpxqNE0F9dA5BilD_h3Kiy-1e2rELBxehcFVAIX0wMrlNn7s/s320/1ffb3ad55622b0850f73b38899cbd938.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-72862958739375688812017-01-20T20:56:00.000+01:002017-01-20T20:56:20.962+01:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>Ceci n’est pas une broderie russe (1)</b></span></div>
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<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix4M94uw_xiiiZRizb81jVWO3YHrx_AgMr_pBMM_Jv_Q1wLJitZAs8zggLHt05c0Ndo7kKTP2Tgoinr4pk8dwvjYPaXQJI8gE0bba0Jhi-D9i0RayDyhEykdQ_VpWp1ThvaecEqmBTGWo/s1600/il_570xN.788557258_al2p.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix4M94uw_xiiiZRizb81jVWO3YHrx_AgMr_pBMM_Jv_Q1wLJitZAs8zggLHt05c0Ndo7kKTP2Tgoinr4pk8dwvjYPaXQJI8gE0bba0Jhi-D9i0RayDyhEykdQ_VpWp1ThvaecEqmBTGWo/s320/il_570xN.788557258_al2p.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></div>
<br />
<b><o:p></o:p></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En faisant des
recherches sur « broderie
russe » sur certains sites, je suis tombée sur des objets qui sûrement ne
le sont pas. En voici un exemple : le DALAHÄST, le cheval en bois qui
provient de la province suédoise de Dalécarlie et qui et pour la Suède ce que
la Tour Eiffel est pour la France ! Le <i>dalahäst</i>
était à l’origine un jouet d’enfant (comme d’autres chevaux en bois un peu
partout dans le monde) mais, comme on aime beaucoup les couleurs en Dalécarlie,
on a commencé à le peindre et il est devenu un souvenir touristique
incontournable. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">L’été dernier, j’ai visité Nusnäs, sa ville d’origine et
naturellement le cheval y est roi ! On peut y suivre la fabrication, commander un cheval avec son nom peint dessus et ensuite passer au magasin
d’usine où le cheval se décline sous toutes les formes et toutes les
matières : T-shirts, plateaux, porte-clefs etc. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjumYIRw5QVkYPBxCpcjDuWzen3yfJmaXsY0z9u3kPHG9Z-y2s8KNPFaOAYHOvZ6ANjc0MRhDA84CxCSxT-epgErG9bFw0Dj9fn9KwRTWqLEY8njBzdA40JzoA195ZxqlWdD1p1TfEbtQ/s1600/DSCF4207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjumYIRw5QVkYPBxCpcjDuWzen3yfJmaXsY0z9u3kPHG9Z-y2s8KNPFaOAYHOvZ6ANjc0MRhDA84CxCSxT-epgErG9bFw0Dj9fn9KwRTWqLEY8njBzdA40JzoA195ZxqlWdD1p1TfEbtQ/s320/DSCF4207.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">On trouve aussi le </span><i style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">dalahäst</i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">
en application en tissu ou en motif de broderie téléchargeable. C’est ainsi
qu’il s’est retrouvé parmi les « broderies russes » sur le site en
question.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Une des créations les plus originales est cette
« peau de <i>dalahäst</i> », façon
peau d’ours, qui se trouve dans la galerie du <i>dalahäst</i> au musée régional de Falun ! A visiter absolument si
vous passez par là ! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMPBqMwPv3QFDjam5_4euRSEF9Qu-z1y_Lb5prm0Mnoq1e_G5GpizlXVr8Wpihkb-bRUPJLNrGQ-J7ZYCZDU1FTgNqEMCoUjlVQG2StuGDF9go5Ao_Nybj0wgShYTjd9D5zpto0f24Bl8/s1600/DSCF4213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibk6TP06yXI01poQMB6BK-O2eSVisVUeFSPRyEXAlhO_Yy2JHGl0X5G0wsBhfFasIoM6g4QQCg1HZQCLfDJFl-pYZrE4UEYYyfp-Y0BvSRdcV53mTnYQ5GvmZ2YBzKfSK533HJmi3f40I/s1600/DSCF5286.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibk6TP06yXI01poQMB6BK-O2eSVisVUeFSPRyEXAlhO_Yy2JHGl0X5G0wsBhfFasIoM6g4QQCg1HZQCLfDJFl-pYZrE4UEYYyfp-Y0BvSRdcV53mTnYQ5GvmZ2YBzKfSK533HJmi3f40I/s320/DSCF5286.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Le <i>dalahäst </i>a
aussi été imprimé sur des housses de couette– et voici comment je l’ai découpé
et cousu sur une pochette pour une amie « kulla » (fille d’origine
dalécarlienne).</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1KTgitME7o_rfsN-nEkiIGB_gFwyudPjtW8PCqVe9v6dxeDRNKSzrfbho1acjNfX82pBA-v6Sqqf9TEbUPkEsxNLbPBUMQuez1fdu_VclFtuUPULS03nzv49tUq8K6C8I9UmCjA5Ytl0/s1600/DSCF1730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1KTgitME7o_rfsN-nEkiIGB_gFwyudPjtW8PCqVe9v6dxeDRNKSzrfbho1acjNfX82pBA-v6Sqqf9TEbUPkEsxNLbPBUMQuez1fdu_VclFtuUPULS03nzv49tUq8K6C8I9UmCjA5Ytl0/s320/DSCF1730.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><b>This is not
Russian embroidery (1)</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtxoj6rrW1w72tckAquwHPUh1kqhLvwwbpdpAH0sTmV_ekC3Hvm1HvxOZi4oazQAvi9qcQ1-yPIypT8X7Q_8Ft4hcebLYZxH1wwOgkG8hfeFT843e2HA723fTIdj2ANcijH3ZQGdh7iQk/s1600/DSCF5287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtxoj6rrW1w72tckAquwHPUh1kqhLvwwbpdpAH0sTmV_ekC3Hvm1HvxOZi4oazQAvi9qcQ1-yPIypT8X7Q_8Ft4hcebLYZxH1wwOgkG8hfeFT843e2HA723fTIdj2ANcijH3ZQGdh7iQk/s320/DSCF5287.JPG" width="286" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">As I searched
“Russian embroidery” on certain sites, I found things that definitely are neither
Russian nor embroideries. Here is one example, the DALAHÄST, the wooden horse
from the Swedish province of Dalecarlia, which is to Sweden what the Eiffel
Tower is to France! </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The <i>dalahäst</i>
originated as a children’s toy (as many other wooden horses throughout the
world) but, as the people in Dalecarlia
love colours, they began to paint it, eventually making it a compulsory souvenir from Sweden. Last summer I visited
its home town Nusnäs, where of course this horse is the chief attraction. You can follow the manufacturing process from
a block of wood to a finished object, have one specially painted for you with
your name on, and then proceed to the
gift shop where you can choose from all sorts of <i>dalahäst</i>-themed things: T-shirts, trays, keyrings and much more.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbueq9x95HLkRDZK82oIIHaniYvVX185ud9picYmyO9-QJ9u2eZRnfrYWEGA7g_M5yzBnuXlSezfRi70Io1dnrUP5RNSNsDSSmTTV7n6mQzGu3au6jUl367IH-5wo23HpxACqmHK__vSU/s1600/DSCF5288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbueq9x95HLkRDZK82oIIHaniYvVX185ud9picYmyO9-QJ9u2eZRnfrYWEGA7g_M5yzBnuXlSezfRi70Io1dnrUP5RNSNsDSSmTTV7n6mQzGu3au6jUl367IH-5wo23HpxACqmHK__vSU/s320/DSCF5288.JPG" width="320" /></a><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The <i>dalahäst</i> also comes as a fabric appliqué
or an embroidery pattern you can download. That is how it ended up as “Russian
embroidery” on the site in question.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">One of the most
original creations is the “<i>dalahäst</i>
hide” in the manner of a bear rug. You can see it in the <i>dalahäst</i> gallery at Falun Museum, which you must visit if you are
in the vicinity!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The <i>dalahäst</i> has also been printed on duvet covers – and the picture above shows how I cut it out
and sewed it onto a treasure bag as a gift for a “kulla” (a girl from
Dalecarlia).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTRSkq5HXTFCXFHv4_Ple_BoqTwK2E0Xtt0Osv75M4-UuTI610mVnCE2ZG54urCI5v4NK1QSWcekeCsAPKuFEd3LtXP7QMd5fleBIjxKluXSaVMNHwTjhuyuVi3HwItXoHRXq-eW8lvos/s1600/DSCF4213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTRSkq5HXTFCXFHv4_Ple_BoqTwK2E0Xtt0Osv75M4-UuTI610mVnCE2ZG54urCI5v4NK1QSWcekeCsAPKuFEd3LtXP7QMd5fleBIjxKluXSaVMNHwTjhuyuVi3HwItXoHRXq-eW8lvos/s320/DSCF4213.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-40332064310320893362017-01-06T19:49:00.001+01:002017-01-20T20:57:00.579+01:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivljdMh1l5EZK1pu8EjDmH95KRkDp1FvGbRCRoTkRD-EgijhuQk1govVRskK9Xuc_0YydEVN4Io8p-k4jAR57H43ZFYW97w6fd9K54BD7q_Z4Xo4dw6MvZyKYI-BrkxdwFE8HSbBJjWpA/s1600/e71093ec120641228837282d083acce0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivljdMh1l5EZK1pu8EjDmH95KRkDp1FvGbRCRoTkRD-EgijhuQk1govVRskK9Xuc_0YydEVN4Io8p-k4jAR57H43ZFYW97w6fd9K54BD7q_Z4Xo4dw6MvZyKYI-BrkxdwFE8HSbBJjWpA/s320/e71093ec120641228837282d083acce0.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>Broderie « russe »</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Bonne année créative à tout le monde !!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Voici un projet mené à bien juste avant les
fêtes : une jupe en tweed ornée d’un motif créé par <a href="https://www.instagram.com/helene.leberre/">Hélène Le Berre</a>, présenté dans Marie-Claire Idées numéro
117 sous le thème du « Noël russe ». La broderie a sûrement été inspirée des
châles fleuris des babouchkas…. J’ai eu la grande chance de la travailler sous
l’œil d’Hélène au cours de son atelier de décembre. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Je trouve que la broderie
se fait bien sur le fond des façades 1800 de Bath, une ville où j’adore me
rendre pour flâner et chiner !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>« Russian »
embroidery</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A Happy and
Creative New Year to all of you!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Here is a project I
finished in time for the holidays: a tweed skirt, embellished with a motif
designed by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/helene.leberre/">Hélène Le Berre</a> and featured in Marie-Claire Idées No 117 for their “Russian Christmas” theme. This
embroidery must have been inspired by floral prints on shawls worn by
baboushkas….I was lucky enough to get started on this embroidery at Hélène’s
workshop last December.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I think this
embroidery looks rather good against the Georgian façades of Bath, which is one
of my favourite places for walking around and seeking out vintage things !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-24159355991006068622016-11-30T20:07:00.000+01:002016-11-30T20:07:26.169+01:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>La saison des écureuils</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4g5du70rdJJ0OrX3XsDTVg8r7pEr0bbBepDmQUgFUWwVeF6oe0g6TP1z6bPuUZE9zJ_QPzrpKbJTXraKBguYtRt40RQo78JjdsZ91_zPh1AYMcXU6hyphenhyphenkevb8DY0TXE4h8AosoLfVcM48/s1600/range-aig-%25C3%25A9cureil-700x700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4g5du70rdJJ0OrX3XsDTVg8r7pEr0bbBepDmQUgFUWwVeF6oe0g6TP1z6bPuUZE9zJ_QPzrpKbJTXraKBguYtRt40RQo78JjdsZ91_zPh1AYMcXU6hyphenhyphenkevb8DY0TXE4h8AosoLfVcM48/s320/range-aig-%25C3%25A9cureil-700x700.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cette automne, ma prof <a href="http://www.leastansal.com/">Léa Stansal</a> nous propose un
joli kit avec un motif d’écureuil. En attendant de m’y mettre, je me suis amusée à regarder quels objets avec
ce charmant animal j’avais autour de moi, pour ne pas parler de vrais écureuils
juste devant ma fenêtre !<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoZ9rqvEz-SE2eLtF2rimpLG1_JOrJEEY2ReBXygFWB0TArdfEfbf3VGrPgJsZXm42QFnLr0q72kQNMgOX8C1tLHxXBIP1qXODdsRew9ruyBsFtXkF-oTpGc6xhq2qUAB1-ArU1vgfLZw/s1600/DSCF5131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoZ9rqvEz-SE2eLtF2rimpLG1_JOrJEEY2ReBXygFWB0TArdfEfbf3VGrPgJsZXm42QFnLr0q72kQNMgOX8C1tLHxXBIP1qXODdsRew9ruyBsFtXkF-oTpGc6xhq2qUAB1-ArU1vgfLZw/s320/DSCF5131.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIfTBIdKt_tQ3yEjfsWLo7ndQqPl17C9MtRgi4ruZoYk7opo0ivK226vMxy8ssVdVVeQmeCVfGLcZAyVx1MXPZ_9OXgeETF0OnBaIaE2qdQwu_CGhmjtx5UzLKQOmnP08YQw1S8smFAzk/s1600/DSCF5134.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIfTBIdKt_tQ3yEjfsWLo7ndQqPl17C9MtRgi4ruZoYk7opo0ivK226vMxy8ssVdVVeQmeCVfGLcZAyVx1MXPZ_9OXgeETF0OnBaIaE2qdQwu_CGhmjtx5UzLKQOmnP08YQw1S8smFAzk/s320/DSCF5134.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBtztaT9RqqzHzLz6EAOWCf0CInatA1yTiAGvxVXgn1eDMjp6y6sUcU4BkpCkm4EhPx07IZeQDvKPLmxhvo5d0t7eC3SJ6j7glBv5lHM3w9Yf5vjlxJtSiYzg7ic3mPW04G_8zUOGuwsE/s1600/il_570xN.901746902_i1o0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBtztaT9RqqzHzLz6EAOWCf0CInatA1yTiAGvxVXgn1eDMjp6y6sUcU4BkpCkm4EhPx07IZeQDvKPLmxhvo5d0t7eC3SJ6j7glBv5lHM3w9Yf5vjlxJtSiYzg7ic3mPW04G_8zUOGuwsE/s320/il_570xN.901746902_i1o0.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Voici donc un ancien plat à gâteaux, de production
lorraine, tout comme ce gland en verre avec l’écureuil dessus. Le compotier en
verre est chiné en Allemagne. Le plat en bois (à noix peut-être ?) me
semble dater des années trente. L’écureuil grimpant en céramique vient d’une
collection années cinquante très connue en Grande-Bretagne, « Fauna »
de la marque Hornsea. Les petits écureuils en peluche sur le quilt avec les
paniers viennent d’une brocante à Metz.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mais pour trouver de nombreux objets avec des
écureuils il faut se tourner vers l’Europe de l’Est. Voici quelques cartes de
l’époque soviétique avec des écureuils qui font des provisions pour
l’hiver ! La broderie au point de croix que j’ai montée en coussin est
également d’origine russe. Et pour finir, voici un petit écureuil que j’ai
essayé d’attraper en photo au merveilleux musée ethnographique d’Ukraine !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">P.S. je viens aussi de terminer une pochette avec
l’image d’un écureuil découpé d’un tissu anglais années quarante (tout en bas).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwNAwOuZbHNdpmTAAlDvJuDEJdC_LBfm4AEdFf11PGkdKc78e9i_cqh1LcNIpypZdzGvhvMDhHl9ZgnhuBL_GodqyeD8jAlAGvcEOWiINjWiqlcgHkXggUUJLOG5dknV0oJElycNb8aFY/s1600/il_570xN.921538543_l6cc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwNAwOuZbHNdpmTAAlDvJuDEJdC_LBfm4AEdFf11PGkdKc78e9i_cqh1LcNIpypZdzGvhvMDhHl9ZgnhuBL_GodqyeD8jAlAGvcEOWiINjWiqlcgHkXggUUJLOG5dknV0oJElycNb8aFY/s320/il_570xN.921538543_l6cc.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>Squirrel time !</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 18.6667px;">Here is a small squirrel that I tried to catch with my camera as I was visiting the wonderful ethnographic museum in Ukraine !</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This autumn, my embroidery
teacher <a href="http://www.leastansal.com/">Léa Stansal</a> has on offer a sweet kit with a squirrel. While gathering energy
for that project, I have had a look around to see what objects with that furry
creature I already had, not to mention the real ones just outside my window!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">So : here’s a
vintage cake stand, made in the French
region of Lorraine, as is the glass acorn with a squirrel on top. The glass
fruit dish is a flea market find from Germany. I think the wooden dish (for
nuts, maybe?) might be from the 1930s. The climbing squirrel is from a well-known English 1950s pottery
collection, “Fauna” by Hornsea. The small velvet squirrels on the basket quilt are from
a flea market in Metz in eastern France.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3qjBaBXcI_2dV-Z7cmHg0-ZmMC0jzKRQrWmfQOXNPSzGQ_-W7knquIWEGZ7honKIPRYhSUgGK53TEKzojp9JBvlutU9sDxK4UuYoKSDJf0Hojjxhx8K87aQ7pT5iPhASjaDJ_OnynIcI/s1600/il_570xN.915631991_ig2c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3qjBaBXcI_2dV-Z7cmHg0-ZmMC0jzKRQrWmfQOXNPSzGQ_-W7knquIWEGZ7honKIPRYhSUgGK53TEKzojp9JBvlutU9sDxK4UuYoKSDJf0Hojjxhx8K87aQ7pT5iPhASjaDJ_OnynIcI/s320/il_570xN.915631991_ig2c.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">However, it is in
Eastern Europe that you will find lots of objects with squirrels on. Here are
some postcards, dating from the Soviet era, representing squirrels storing away
food for the winter! The cross-stitch embroidery
that I have made into a cushion is also of Russian origin. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">P.S. I have also just
finished a small bag; the picture of a squirrel is cut out from an English
1940s children’s fabric. </span><br />
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-7559720755990012112016-11-15T20:23:00.000+01:002016-11-15T20:23:49.463+01:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>Inspiration automnale : le sorbier<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigsqISOxr2jz9oFWk-aALPG6YqV9BiIfaA6yh3piakFG1wzxSvMzFZFFPKvKJhTMX1QYPDORTeL1io66djNtMF-r8Rvek-BxEroXIwj_KYCQNJcNaBH_0LZQOCshXKb7sEhAqESB21DRs/s1600/DSCF5202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigsqISOxr2jz9oFWk-aALPG6YqV9BiIfaA6yh3piakFG1wzxSvMzFZFFPKvKJhTMX1QYPDORTeL1io66djNtMF-r8Rvek-BxEroXIwj_KYCQNJcNaBH_0LZQOCshXKb7sEhAqESB21DRs/s320/DSCF5202.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Les baies de sorbier est un motif que j’aime particulièrement
en automne, ces perles rouges qui éclairent les arbres jaunissants…</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">J’ai chez
moi cette boîte en émail de l’époque soviétique (très pratique pour le frigo)
ainsi qu’une patère, également russe, qui montre une pie qui fait
sécher ses provisions – champignons et baies de sorbier – pour l’hiver…</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Beaucoup d’objets
russes sont décorés de baies rouges, parfois cela peut être également la <i>kalina,</i> le viorne obier.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cette année j’ai voulu broder des branches de sorbier
sur une jupe en tweed : voici le résultat, fortement inspiré des cours
pris chez <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/HeleneLeBerreAtelier?ref=ss_profile">Hélène Le Berre</a> (merci, Hélène !)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><b>Autumn inspires me:
rowanberries!<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rowanberries are a
motif that I have a fondness for in autumn, those pretty red beads that lit up
yellowing leaves…. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">At home, I have this enamel box, very handy for the fridge,
dating from Soviet times. The painted board, with a magpie drying mushrooms and rowanberries for the winter, is also
of Russian origin. Russians like to
decorate objects with red berries – sometimes it can also be the <i>kalina (Viburnum opulus). <o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">This year I wanted to embroider rowan branches
on a tweed skirt: here is the result, strongly inspired by my classes with the French designer <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/HeleneLeBerreAtelier?ref=ss_profile">Hélène Le Berre</a> (merci, Hélène!)</span></div>
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<o:p></o:p>Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-692162600721536592016-10-31T19:12:00.000+01:002016-10-31T19:12:18.465+01:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Motifs de broderie, esprit patriotique</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4CIPv2uio7kTHTtTA_V0tAQ6IgcYT0r3zymOgt0YfQoqMkq336fUvtLM7gDapkgvOCAbng6nOk5s9APC6kn3Pl0cVqpy6tYMLdW0r0e0R2FKN9VsBT-sGfVRl8Jnq1n9LdMhhalr4YoU/s1600/DSCF1919.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4CIPv2uio7kTHTtTA_V0tAQ6IgcYT0r3zymOgt0YfQoqMkq336fUvtLM7gDapkgvOCAbng6nOk5s9APC6kn3Pl0cVqpy6tYMLdW0r0e0R2FKN9VsBT-sGfVRl8Jnq1n9LdMhhalr4YoU/s320/DSCF1919.JPG" width="288" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Je viens de rentrer d’un voyage en Ukraine. Là-bas,
j’ai été frappé par l’omniprésence des motifs de broderie ukrainienne. J’ai
parlé de cette broderie à prédominance rouge et noire l’année dernière lorsque
j’ai présenté les serviettes traditionnelles (<i>rouchniki</i>). Aujourd’hui, on la retrouve sur des tuniques et des
T-shirts en vente dans de nombreuses boutiques à Kiev. A juger par la quantité
de ces vêtements en vente, je ne pense pas qu’ils soient uniquement destinés
aux touristes ; et en effet, je les ai vu portés par les habitants de la
ville. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Plus curieusement, on retrouve ces mêmes motifs
imprimés sur environ 90% des sacs en plastique, quelle que soit la spécialité
du magasin en question ; et même, sur des nappes en plastique, comme sur
ce chantier près de l’opéra.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">J’ai visité un monument important à Kiev : le
mémorial de la famine 1932-1933 orchestrée par Staline pour briser la
résistance ukrainienne à la collectivisation des fermes. Cet évènement est
gravé dans la mémoire collective ukrainienne. Or, la salle d’exposition était décorée
de motifs des <i>rouchniki </i>; avec,
certes une ironie amère, l’arbre de vie. Au point central de l’exposition
figurait également une construction en métal qui rappelait les « araignées
en paille » typiques de l’art populaire ukrainien.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On voit clairement que le peuple ukrainien a besoin de
se souder face à la menace russe qu’il ressent. C’est intéressant qu’il utilise
des motifs de broderie comme symboles de
l’unité nationale.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Embroidery motifs
and a patriotic spirit<o:p></o:p></b></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I have recently
made a trip to Ukraine where I was struck by the omnipresence of Ukrainian
embroidery motifs. Last year, I spoke about this red and black embroidery on
traditional towels (<i>rushniki</i>). Today,
you can find this embroidery on tunics and T-shirts sold in a multitude of
shops in Kiev. Judging by the quantity of these garments for sale, I don’t
think they are solely meant as souvenirs for tourists, and indeed, I saw local
people wearing them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">More interestingly,
we see the same motifs printed on around 90% of plastic carriers bags, whatever
the shop in question is selling; and even on plastic tablecloths, as on this
building site close to the opera house.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">In Kiev, I visited
an important monument: the memorial of the man-made famine of 1932-1933, devised
by Stalin to break Ukrainian resistance to the collectivisation of farms. It is
an event etched in collective Ukrainian memory. I noted with interest that the
exhibition hall was decorated with motifs from <i>rushniki</i>, among others, a tree of life – what bitter irony! The
central point of the exhibition also included a metal construction referring to
“straw spiders”, typical of Ukrainian folk art.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It seems clear
that the Ukrainians feel a need to unite against the Russian threat they are experiencing.
It is interesting that they use embroidery motifs as symbols of national unity.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-49631858459579593002016-10-13T21:20:00.002+02:002016-10-14T13:58:36.880+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>(The Day) When the
Ship Comes In</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv0ztq-yCg9klCHJT-oTvJEiN5qxMMBtuec5jbxt-gODKoYYuTwJ62ZWh-LilZJ2T5Acg7oJ9yowo0LWeX8XPSm7WlJfo9NNliQEhJgbC7JfDWiofTxoKC9MO3zhyphenhyphenu83iTwZiJ7nZHQ8w/s1600/Dylan2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv0ztq-yCg9klCHJT-oTvJEiN5qxMMBtuec5jbxt-gODKoYYuTwJ62ZWh-LilZJ2T5Acg7oJ9yowo0LWeX8XPSm7WlJfo9NNliQEhJgbC7JfDWiofTxoKC9MO3zhyphenhyphenu83iTwZiJ7nZHQ8w/s1600/Dylan2.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">C’est un grand jour aujourd’hui.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Il faut que j’exprime ma joie ici à l’annonce du Prix
Nobel de littérature : Bob Dylan.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On ne se défait pas de ses idoles de jeunesse. Mais Bob
Dylan est plus qu’un chanteur. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">C’est un poète dont les paroles sont gravées dans la
mémoire collective de ma génération. Poésie rebelle, poésie lyrique, poésie
visionnaire, poésie burlesque… tout est là.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Croyez-moi, ça vaut le coup d’apprendre l’anglais rien
que pour apprécier son œuvre (et c’est en partie ce qui m’a poussée à le
faire).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Il est vrai, Hugues Aufray a fait un bon travail pour
rendre les chansons de Dylan accessible au public français, mais … <i>something got lost in translation</i>
(quelque chose s’est perdu en cours de la traduction).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Si
vous connaissez l’anglais, comparez donc ces strophes de <i>When the ship comes in</i>:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Oh the fishes will laugh <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As they swim out of the path <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And the seagulls they will be smiling<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And the rocks on the sand<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Will proudly stand<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The hour that the ship comes in.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And the words they used<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For to get the ship confused<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Will not be understood as they’re spoken<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For the chains of the sea<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Will have busted in the night<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And will be buried at the bottom of the ocean<span style="text-transform: uppercase;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Avec <i>Le jour où le bateau viendra</i>:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Les poissons seront fiers
de nager sur la terre<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
<span style="background: white;">Et les oiseaux auront le sourire.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><br />
<span style="background: white;">Sur le sable les rochers seront heureux croyez-moi<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><br />
<span style="background: white;">Le jour où le bateau viendra.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="background: white;">Ce que l'on disait pour égarer les marins<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><br />
<span style="background: white;">Ne voudra plus rien dire non plus rien<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><br />
<span style="background: white;">Et les grandes marées seront déchaînées<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><br />
<span style="background: white;">Le jour où le bateau viendra.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Alors vous constaterez que la poésie de Bob Dylan est superbe…
et intraduisible !</span></span><span style="border: 1pt none; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; padding: 0cm;"><br />
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br />
<!--[endif]--></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dans les années soixante, un journaliste suédois avait
déjà écrit que Bob Dylan méritait le Prix Nobel – quelle idée farfelue, à l’époque...
Après 50 ans, c’est enfin fait !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>(The Day) When the
Ship Comes In</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It is a special
day today and I just want to tell you how happy I was as the winner of the Nobel
Prize for literature was announced: Bob Dylan.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">You never quite
leave behind the idols of your youth. But Bob Dylan is more than a singer. He is
a poet whose words are etched in the collective memory of my generation. A
poetry that is rebellious, lyrical, visionary or burlesque. Believe me, it has
been worth learning English just in order to understand his texts (which actually partly
motivated me)!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The French singer-song writer Hugues Aufray certainly did a
great job translating Dylan’s texts in order to make him known in France. But –
if you master French and read the verses above, you will surely agree that something got lost in translation…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="outline: 0px;">
</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Already in the
sixties, a Swedish reporter suggested that Bob Dylan deserved the Nobel Prize.
It sounded preposterous at the time, but… times they have a-changed and 50
years later, it is done!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-15360634734760408462016-09-14T14:09:00.000+02:002016-09-15T09:54:56.411+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;">Un village tout en fleurs</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dans le sud de Pologne se
trouve le village de Zalipie. Depuis une centaine d’années, les habitants y ont
pour coutume de peindre des motifs floraux sur les murs des maisons. C’est un
savoir-faire qui se transmet de génération en génération : les enfants
apprennent à l’école à peindre les motifs typiques du village et chaque année
on organise des concours pour la plus belle maison peinte. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ce n’est toutefois pas un
village-musée, mais une communauté qui suit le développement économique.
Certaines maisons anciennes en bois avec leurs peintures sont sauvegardées,
mais on construit aussi du neuf, et si l’extérieur ne se prête pas à la
décoration, on peint les pièces à l’intérieur ! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Il y a toutefois une
maison avec une exposition permanente, c’est l’ancienne demeure de Felicja
Curyło (1904-1974), la femme qui a donné de l’essor à cet art. Le régime
communiste d’après-guerre encourageait vivement l’art populaire, et les femmes
de Zalipie (car cette activité est avant tout féminine) recevaient des
commandes pour décorer des magasins, des restaurants et même la salle de jeux
des enfants sur un paquebot. En échange, Felicja Curyło a demandé au
gouvernement, dans les années 50, qu’on installe l’électricité dans son
village ! Elle voulait aussi voir une « maison des peintres » (plus exactement, au féminin : <a href="http://www.dommalarek.pl/index.html">Dom malarek</a><i> –
« </i>maison des femmes peintres ») au village. C’était chose faite
en 1977. La maison emploie des peintres qui décorent des objets mis en vente,
accueille les visiteurs et organise des ateliers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Une autre tradition est
la fabrication des fleurs en papier de toutes les couleurs. Nous sommes, après
tout, dans la région de Cracovie, avec ses coffres richement peints et ses
costumes rebrodés. Les habitants de Zalipie ornent leur environnement sans se
restreindre : on peint l’étable, la niche du chien, la ruche et le
poulailler ! La crèche de Noël est également ornée de motifs typiques, ainsi
que l’église paroissiale. Voici l’ancien four typique dans la maison Curyło,
ainsi qu’une image pieuse et un vaisselier – fleuris, fleuris….<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pour une telle promenade,
il fallait que je mette un gilet avec des motifs floraux : Cornfield de Sasha
Kagan. J’ai rapporté de Zalipie beaucoup d’inspiration et des idées pour des
ouvrages à venir !<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: large;">A village in bloom</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In southern Poland you will find a village called
Zalipie. For about a hundred years now, its inhabitants have been painting
their houses in vivid floral motifs. It is a skill that is passed on from one
generation to the next one. Children are taught at the local school how to
paint these typical motifs, and every year there is a competition for the most
beautifully painted house in the village. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Zalipie is, however, not a museum but a community that
lives with its times. Some old wooden painted houses are kept, but new houses
are built. If new building materials are not easy to paint on the outside, then
the typical motifs are moved indoors to the various rooms! <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Still, there is one house with an permanent
exhibition. It used to belong to Felicja Curyło (1904-1974), thanks to whom
this tradition gained momentum. The post-war Communist government strongly
encouraged popular arts and crafts, and the Zalipie women (this activity has
mainly been the domain of women) were commissioned to decorate shops, restaurants
and even a children’s playroom on an ocean liner. In exchange, Felicja Curyło asked
the government in the mid-fifties for electricity in her village! She also
wished to see a ‘painters’ house’ (more exactly in the feminine form: <i><a href="http://www.dommalarek.pl/index.html">Dom malarek</a> – « </i>women painters’
house ») in the village. That dream was realised in 1977. This centre
employs painters who decorate objects for sale, receives visitors and holds
workshops. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Another tradition is making colourful paper flowers.
This is, after all, the region of Cracow, famous for richly painted chests and
beautifully embroidered costumes. The people of Zalipie embellish their environment
without restraint: they paint the barn, the hen house, the dog’s kennel, the beehive!
The Christmas nativity scene is also decorated with the typical floral motifs,
and so is the parish church. In one of
the photos you can see a typical old furnace in the Curyło house, as well as a blessed
picture and a dresser </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 18.6667px; line-height: 21.4667px;">and its contents </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">– all adorned with flowers!</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For this walk, I thought it suitable to wear a floral jacket:
Cornfield by Sasha Kagan. I brought back from Zalipie a huge amount of ideas
and inspiration for future needlework, believe me!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-30033265077778674382016-09-05T22:03:00.002+02:002016-09-05T22:03:43.565+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Les roses de Dalécarlie (6)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Je retourne vers le sujet du <i>ryssröd</i> – « rouge russe », ce tissu imprimé rouge qui est
tellement présent dans les costumes régionaux de Dalécarlie.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">C’est un tissu que nous retrouvons dans plusieurs
régions d’Europe et d’Asie. Souvent, il apparaît comme la doublure des petites
pochettes afghanes ou broderies ouzbèques. En Moravie, des grands foulards
imprimés font partie du costume régional. Nous en voyons souvent dans les
patchworks anciens – néerlandais, français, anglais ou américains. En France,
il est connu sous le nom de <i>rouge
adrinople</i> ; an anglais c’est <i>Turkey
red</i>. Il y avait des manufactures d’impression dans plusieurs pays : en
Russie, en France, en Ecosse….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Ces tissus rouges sont arrivés en Dalécarlie de plusieurs
façons. Les femmes de Dalécarlie se déplaçaient loin pour vendre leurs produits
d’artisanat, jusqu’en Russie, d’où elles ramenaient ces tissus. Les tissus
étaient également vendus par des vendeurs itinérants de la province de Västergötland,
où se trouve la grande ville portuaire de Göteborg. Il y avait, enfin, un magasin
dans la plus grande ville de Dalécarlie, Falun, dont le propriétaire, un Juif autrichien,
importait des tissus d’Europe centrale.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Le <i>ryssröd </i>
apparait souvent dans les costumes de Dalécarlie : comme ce tablier trouvé
à Nås, ce bonnet dans le musée de Falun, ou le foulard de Rättvik. Notons aussi
la tradition à Rättvik de présenter les enfants au baptême dans un « sac »
cousu dans ce tissu traditionnel, qu’on réimprime toujours. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Dans son livre sur les patchworks anciens suèdois, Åsa
Wettre a inclus un ouvrage de Dalécarlie
fait avec ces imprimés de coton. Ils sont également connus sous le nom de <i>kattun</i>, du français <i>coton</i>, anglais <i>cotton</i> ou
néerlandais <i>katoen</i> – mais qui n’est pas le nom générique du
« coton » en suèdois !<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The Roses of
Dalecarlia (6)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">I would like to
come back to the subject of <i>ryssröd </i> (‘Russian red’), that printed red fabric which is ubiquitous in Dalecarlian regional
costumes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">This fabric creeps
up in various parts of Europe and Asia. We can often see is as the lining of
Afghan purses or Uzbek embroidered panels. In Moravia, large printed scarfs are
part of their regional costumes. It also appears in old patchwork quilts, be it
Dutch, French, English or American. In English it is called <i>Turkey red</i>, in French <i>rouge adrinople</i> <i>. </i>There were textile mills printing this
type of fabric in several countries, for instance Russia, France, or Scotland.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">These red
fabrics entered Dalecarlia in various ways. Women from Dalecarlia travelled far in order
to sell their hand crafted products, all the way to Russia, from where they
brought home such fabrics. These fabrics
were also sold by wandering salesmen from the province of Västergötland, where
the large port of Gothenburg is situated.
There was also a big fabric shop in the largest town of Dalecarlia,
Falun, whose owner, a Jew from Austria,
imported fabric from Central Europe.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Ryssröd </span></i><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"> often appears in Dalecarlian
costumes ; for instance in the form of this apron found in Nås, this
bonnet now in the collection of Falun Museum, or as this scarf in Rättvik. It is also interesting
that there is a tradition in Rättvik of bringing children to the christening
ceremony in “bags” made of this traditional fabric, which is still being reprinted.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">In her book on old
Swedish quilts, Åsa Wettre mentions a patchwork quilt from Dalecarlia made
of such pieces of printed cotton. They
are also know under the name of <i>kattun</i> ,
from French <i>coton</i>, English <i>cotton</i> or Dutch <i>katoen</i> - which, however, is
not the generetic Swedish name for “cotton”!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Réferences:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Rättviks hemslöjd: <i>Rättviksdräkten</i> 2009<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Sandberg, Gösta: <i>Purpur, koschenill, krapp</i>, 1994<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Wettre, Åsa: <i>Gamla svenska lapptäcken</i> 1993<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-17435038416351120562016-08-09T23:08:00.000+02:002016-08-09T23:08:27.992+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Les roses de Dalécarlie (5)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Encore une technique avec
laquelle j’ai fait connaissance pendant le stage à Dala-Floda est le crochet
multicolore du village voisin de Nås. Ce n’est pas une technique exclusive pour
cette région : on retrouve par exemple de portemonnaies crochetés en plusieurs
couleurs en Turquie. La méthode consiste
à anticiper le changement des couleurs dès la fermeture de la demi-bride précédente
qui se fait dans la nouvelle couleur, et de dissimuler à l’arrière de l’ouvrage
le fil qu’on ne travaille pas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"> Après quelques heures d’entraînement à cette
technique, nous avons visité une exposition de l’artisanat local justement à
Nås. Le crochet multicolore était utilisé pour fabriquer des moufles, des pochettes,
des galons pour orner le bas de jupes, des bretelles qui étaient offertes comme
cadeau au fiancé, des bonnets... et des châles qu’on appelle <i>hjärtevärmare </i> – « chauffe-coeur ».
Je crois que je me suis laissée emporter un peu par ces derniers et leur joli
nom, parce que j’ai acheté un kit pour en faire un ! Je me suis dit que
j’allais travailler avec la méthode de <a href="http://bricolosdulundi.canalblog.com/">Claire</a>, (faire une certaine quantité d’un
ouvrage chaque jour, par exemple un block pour un patchwork) et crocheter une
rangée par jour. Première étape :
Monter une chaîne de 800 mailles…hmmm ….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Voici quelques photos de
l’exposition au centre de culture locale (<i>Hembygdsgården</i>)
de Nås. Au fait, presque chaque village en Dalécarlie en possède un, ainsi
qu’un magasin d’artisanat local (<i>Hemslöjden</i>).
Quelle merveilleuse région !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Les dentelles aux bonnets
signifient que la porteuse est mariée. A ce que je sache, dans la plupart de
cultures européennes on distinguait les jeunes filles et les femmes mariées par
leur couvre-chef.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The Roses of Dalecarlia (5)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">During the workshop in Dala-Floda, I got acquainted
with yet another textile technique: multi-coloured crochet from the
neighbouring village of Nås. This technique is not unique to the region; we encounter
it for instance in crocheted purses in Turkey.
In multi-coloured crochet, you anticipate the colour change with the
last loop of the preceding single crochet stitch which is done in the new
colour, and the yarn you are not using has to be hidden at the back of your
work. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">After a few hour of practice of this crochet
technique, we were taken to an exhibition of local crafts precisely in Nås. Multi-coloured
crochet was used for mittens, tie-on pockets, trims for skirts, braces that
were gifts for one’s fiancé, bonnets…and shawls called <i>hjärtevärmare </i> - ‘heart
warmers’. I am afraid I got carried away by the beauty of these shawls and
their pretty name, because I bought myself a kit! I decided I would work with
the method of my friend <a href="http://bricolosdulundi.canalblog.com/">Claire</a> (make a certain stint a day, for instance one quilt
block), and crochet one row every day… well, the first step is: make a chain of
800 stitches….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Here are some pictures of the exhibition at the local
heritage centre (<i>Hembygdsgården) </i>in Nås.
Actually, almost every village in Dalecarlia has one, as well as a local craft
shop (<i>Hemslöjden</i>). What a wonderful
country!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Bonnets adorned with lace mean that the wearer is married.
As far as I know, in most European cultures the distinction between unmarried
girls and married woman was made by means of their headwear.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-81450889956186909612016-08-04T18:32:00.004+02:002016-08-04T18:32:49.022+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Les roses de Dalécarlie
(4)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwWFWCL7O7MONvSHjzlbGJlgWzvmixW4NeKjvr3blzFzXGtGndaz77WB2hhxuG5Ohp8kqSlbKDuz4U2kP-uFbYr4Au9Or8CfdDCyCjA_S5ioFjIDMG_zYh6VCdwbHVkzrldMJvtlnUjV0/s1600/DSCF3849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwWFWCL7O7MONvSHjzlbGJlgWzvmixW4NeKjvr3blzFzXGtGndaz77WB2hhxuG5Ohp8kqSlbKDuz4U2kP-uFbYr4Au9Or8CfdDCyCjA_S5ioFjIDMG_zYh6VCdwbHVkzrldMJvtlnUjV0/s320/DSCF3849.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Pendant le stage à Dala-Floda nous avons aussi pu nous
familiariser avec d’autres techniques textiles de la région.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">L’une d’elles est le tricot appelé <i>tvåändsstickning</i>. Je ne sais même pas s’il
y a un terme français, vu que c’est une méthode si spécifique pour les pays nordiques. On a trouvé un gant datant du XVIIe siècle,
fait en cette technique. Elle consiste à tricoter en alternance avec les deux
bouts d’une même pelote. Ceci donne un tricot très serré. La méthode est
surtout utilisée pour les moufles – qu’on embellit richement avec des
broderies, une fois finies, pour des
chaussettes, et pour les manches des vestes traditionnelles.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Les manches sont d’abord tricotées en blanc et noir. C’est
seulement quand elles sont terminés qu’on les teint en rouge (explication : ce serait du gaspillage de teindre la laine
en pelote, vu qu’on ne l’utiliserait pas entièrement). Autrefois, on les
apportait ensuite chez le tailleur qui les attachait à la veste en drap vert.
Souvent, la veste était décorée avec des broderies faites avec la machine à
coudre. Même les raccommodages étaient tricotés de la même façon !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Au fur et à mesure que l’ouvrage avançait, on tricotait
plus large et les motifs floraux étaient également élargies, sans grilles pour
aider la tricoteuse ! Au fait, on appelle tous les motifs floraux dans la
région des « roses » ….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">La difficulté avec ce genre de tricot est que les fils
s’entortillent, et il faut souvent s’arrêter et les démêler. Pour cette raison,
on utilise les fils filés en « Z » (normalement les fils sont filés
en « S »). Nous avons visité la filature <a href="http://www.walstedts.se/en/">Wålstedts</a> dans le village,
entreprise familiale depuis quatre générations, qui produit ce type de fil et
beaucoup plus.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Une autre difficulté, pour les personnes qui ont
appris à tricoter de manière scandinave, est que le mouvement est à l’envers de
ce qu’on a l’habitude de faire. Le fil est tenu sur les doigts de la main
droite, et on bouge les aiguilles (toujours cinq aiguilles pour le tricot en
rond) dans le sens opposé de l’habituel. Si on introduit une autre couleur, on
laisse toutefois l‘un de bouts de la
pelote principale de côté et on travaille avec un fil de chaque couleur. C’est
dire que l’ouvrage n’avance pas vite ! Voici mon début d’un
chauffe-poignet, je crois qu’il finira comme bracelet….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Sur ce tableau du peintre dalécarlien Anders Zorn (1860-1920),
on peut voir une fille de la région tricoter avec cette méthode (cela se voit
sur sa façon de tenir les aiguilles). Le tricot était pour la population paysanne une source de revenu supplémentaire. On
tricotait dans la charrette en allant aux champs, dans les près en surveillant
le bétail, et naturellement, à la maison pendant l’hiver. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">The Roses of
Dalecarlia (4)</span><span style="font-size: x-large;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">During the workshop
in Dala-Floda we also got acquainted with other textile techniques of the
region.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">One is a knitting
technique called <i>tvåändsstickning</i>. In
English I’ve seen it called 'two-end knitting' or 'twined knitting', but it is essentially
specific to Nordic countries. There is
an archaeological finding of a glove from the seventeenth century made in that
technique, which consists in alternating knitting with each end of the same
ball of yarn. This yields a very compact knitting. The technique is mainly used
for mittens – which are afterwards richly embroidered; <span style="font-size: 18.6667px; line-height: 19.9733px;">socks and sleeves of traditional jackets.</span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The sleeves are
first knitted in black and white. It is only afterwards that they are dyed red (because
if the yarn were to be dyed before knitting, it would result in waste, since
some of the yarn on the ball would not be used). In the old days, the sleeves would then be
taken to the tailor, who sewed them onto the green jacket made of woollen
cloth. Sometimes, the tailor would ornament the jacket with sewing-machine
embroidery. Even patches on the sleeves were made using the same method!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-L3KAgy5BrPR3qDFdOo-CCBlvfETlrvjm058pFHhYCzwP2uEbC0pTsYH5dalR8A018xjCIx4_rjB13r61VYZe-Fk_QwIJjFOeqIyqG0KpEX-r6I0jKES3EBho6tT8iFd_gfokyEJ_ujA/s1600/DSCF4001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-L3KAgy5BrPR3qDFdOo-CCBlvfETlrvjm058pFHhYCzwP2uEbC0pTsYH5dalR8A018xjCIx4_rjB13r61VYZe-Fk_QwIJjFOeqIyqG0KpEX-r6I0jKES3EBho6tT8iFd_gfokyEJ_ujA/s320/DSCF4001.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">As the sleeve grew
and got larger, the floral motifs got larger too, and that in spite of the fact
that there were no grids for the pattern to help the knitter! Actually, all
floral motifs in the region are called roses….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The difficulty
with this kind of knitting is that the threads get twined and you have to stop
often and untwine them. For this reason, “Z”-spun yarn is used (normally, yarn
is “S”-spun). We visited <a href="http://www.walstedts.se/en/">Wålstedts</a>, a spinning mill in the village going four
generations back in time. They stock the “Z”-spun yarn along with other
goodies.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Another difficulty
for people that have leared to knit the Scandinavian way is that movements are
the opposite of what one is used to. The yarn is held over the fingers of the
right hand, and the needles (double-pointed needles for knitting in the round)
are moved in the direction opposite to the usual one. If you introduce another
colour, you work the yarn of that colour and just one end of the main
colour. All this leads to slow
progress! I started on a wrist-warmer, but I think I’ll be happy with
a bracelet!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Anders Zorn, a painter
from Dalecarlia, (1860-1920), has painted a local girl knitting using this
method (as seen by the way she holds the needles). Knitting was for the peasant
population an additional income source. They knitted in the wagons on their way
to the field, in the meadows while watching the cattle, and of course, at home
during the winter months.</span></div>
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<o:p></o:p>Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-62716140142766381232016-07-25T11:15:00.003+02:002016-07-27T22:26:03.968+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Les roses de Dalécarlie (3)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7xHF1oxU1JTFu8d3brcb4QwWVSVm7HjerSlBXtGXsL3TgbkqOynE6m6OWzQkUE0Kg8_wSvjWw3poegBa68dGCRm1hVHrfkGyqsgDnjRfQ8q7if4N5WXaU9srRS1QYBw_kbZZpn08tOu8/s1600/img_se_3_213%25402x.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7xHF1oxU1JTFu8d3brcb4QwWVSVm7HjerSlBXtGXsL3TgbkqOynE6m6OWzQkUE0Kg8_wSvjWw3poegBa68dGCRm1hVHrfkGyqsgDnjRfQ8q7if4N5WXaU9srRS1QYBw_kbZZpn08tOu8/s320/img_se_3_213%25402x.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Au début, il y avait un bonnet….Comme la plupart de
petites filles en Suède en ce temps-là, je portais un tel bonnet en hiver. J’ai
toujours gardé le souvenir de ces fleurs aux couleurs vives. J’ai retenu le nom
de cette broderie – <i>påsöm</i> – et après
des années, j’ai participé à un stage pour l’apprendre, dans son village
d’origine.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6w0eeW4y4OSZLLperJlk4m-103zAFdlhQUZUVeQ-xuyw_4gO1y-7r4MeHx8CBgwA26Nl7HdtJMc6j_OkvPHjq9WSr4rfjYANvwvQl13hCc0OjjIFkzjik-G2hS4FvF0sA4IBG-4qkQe8/s1600/980c52e03e7355fe2a29399640c23947.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6w0eeW4y4OSZLLperJlk4m-103zAFdlhQUZUVeQ-xuyw_4gO1y-7r4MeHx8CBgwA26Nl7HdtJMc6j_OkvPHjq9WSr4rfjYANvwvQl13hCc0OjjIFkzjik-G2hS4FvF0sA4IBG-4qkQe8/s320/980c52e03e7355fe2a29399640c23947.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">C’est une broderie exécutée avec un fil de laine, un
peu plus fin que la laine Colbert (si on retire un fil de la laine Colbert, on
obtient la bonne épaisseur) ; la marque anglaise Appleton Tapestry convient
bien. Il y a aussi une marque scandinave, Hjertegarn, qui est celle qu’on
utilisait en classe. Le support est un drap de laine.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">On dessinait des gabarits sur de morceaux de carton
qui circulaient ensuite dans le village. On note que les mêmes motifs
reviennent : les marguerites (!), les roses, les pensées… une fleur
stylisée que les brodeuses appellent « dahlia ». </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Les points utilisés sont principalement le passé plat,
le point de tige, le point de nœud. Parfois on ajoute des points en soie pour
les contours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Cette fleur rose demande beaucoup
d’exactitude : elle est appelée <i>stickros</i> (« rose tricotée »),
puisque les points rappellent le point jersey.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">A Dala-Floda, on brode les vestes, les pochettes, les
ceintures, les bandes du bas de jupes et les moufles. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Voici notre professeur, Anna-Karin Arnsberg, dans une
des vestes qu’elle a brodées. Et c’est
également elle qui pose en son costume
régional dans le livre de Laila Duran « Scandinavian Folklore II ».<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: 18.6667px; line-height: 19.9733px;">Et voici une poupée en costume brodé de Dala-Floda, l'oeuvre de la brodeuse </span><a href="http://dagnyolsson.wix.com/hantverk#!blank/t06ns" style="font-size: 18.6667px; line-height: 19.9733px;">Dagny Olsson</a><span style="font-size: 18.6667px; line-height: 19.9733px;">.</span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Le fait que des petites filles comme moi portaient des
bonnets brodés de Dala-Floda à des centaines de kilomètres du village démontre
la popularité de cette broderie, puisque les magasins dans la Suède entière en
stockaient.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">The Roses of
Dalecarlia (3)</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">It all started
with a bonnet… Like most little girls in Sweden at the time, I wore such an embroidered bonnet in winter. I have kept a memory of its vividly coloured flowers. I learned
the name of this embroidery –<i> påsöm–</i>
and after many years, I took part in a course in order to learn it, in the
village where it originated.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The yarn used for
this embroidery is wool: Appleton’s Tapestry wool has the right thickness; the
French laine Colbert needs one thread removed. In class, we used the Scandinavian
Hjertegarn. The embroidery is done on woollen cloth. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUUYF1w6lwF6r6itTwSq-LgSV5143DPoCQ8t9nzr8G3VvupRh0ZB9GS4lhxxZ4vG9Pqh1PLANemLt0WUhKT9IXgSu4TMWwnpHIjwm7YqPTyeTDD4JJ4J3D3wcFukT507dr7JTGdPmsE2Q/s1600/DSCF3891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUUYF1w6lwF6r6itTwSq-LgSV5143DPoCQ8t9nzr8G3VvupRh0ZB9GS4lhxxZ4vG9Pqh1PLANemLt0WUhKT9IXgSu4TMWwnpHIjwm7YqPTyeTDD4JJ4J3D3wcFukT507dr7JTGdPmsE2Q/s320/DSCF3891.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">There were templates
drawn on cardboard and cut out, which circulated in the village. There are many
floral motifs, mainly daisies, roses, violets… one stylised flower the
embroiderers call “dahlia”. </span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The main stitches
used are satin stitch, stem stitch and French knots. Sometimes there is an
outline stich in silk floss. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRqELZmFXdQHZlohF1ISJtBY099fq1cybaKLPvOcGsqB9jxFlJ0ytfpmnAbUTIWEN2XETW3FCIBMkQrBl4rQXIr2UG4sVCAoFISoTI_eGj6YYo1hkLDNh-E3B1Nadrtl8BLSBw67FkA0o/s1600/DSCF3908.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRqELZmFXdQHZlohF1ISJtBY099fq1cybaKLPvOcGsqB9jxFlJ0ytfpmnAbUTIWEN2XETW3FCIBMkQrBl4rQXIr2UG4sVCAoFISoTI_eGj6YYo1hkLDNh-E3B1Nadrtl8BLSBw67FkA0o/s320/DSCF3908.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">This blue flower calls
for a lot of precision. It is called “stickros” (‘knitted rose’), because the
stitches look like stocking stitch. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">These embroideries
can be found on jackets, tied pockets, belts, mitts and on trimmings sewn to
the bottom of skirts. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Here is our
teacher, Anna-Karin Arnsberg, in one of the jackets she has embroidered. And it
is also she, wearing her local costume, in the pictures taken by Laila Duran
for her book « Scandinavian Folklore II ».<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 18.6667px; line-height: 19.9733px;">The doll above is the work of the local embroideress </span></span><a href="http://dagnyolsson.wix.com/hantverk#!blank/t06ns" style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 18.6667px; line-height: 19.9733px;">Dagny Olsson</a>.<br />
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The fact that
little girls like myself wore embroidered bonnets from Dala-Floda hundreds of
kilometres away from that village proves the popularity of this embroidery,
since it was for sale in shops all over Sweden.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-71159666564738024192016-07-20T17:36:00.000+02:002016-07-20T17:36:06.359+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: large;">Les roses de Dalécarlie (2)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgdIlJDbVTnm2xsIhoxNkLxOZ5JBnEXCeWUaPi3v_qjkds3a8DSasNJF0d_XBKL0sIPAAol1H7E1G9hkEtwpj_iz3Zx0nSRSntlNOPcLC1X0Mm2PtsfwTQWniRxAhJ-umzg7VxCKu8Ml0/s1600/21797788-lqRDa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgdIlJDbVTnm2xsIhoxNkLxOZ5JBnEXCeWUaPi3v_qjkds3a8DSasNJF0d_XBKL0sIPAAol1H7E1G9hkEtwpj_iz3Zx0nSRSntlNOPcLC1X0Mm2PtsfwTQWniRxAhJ-umzg7VxCKu8Ml0/s320/21797788-lqRDa.jpg" width="258" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Cette broderie dont je vous ai parlée, spécifique pour
le village de Dala-Floda et appelée <i>påsöm</i>,
est apparue au cours de la deuxième moitié du 19<sup>e</sup> siècle. On peut y
voir au moins deux sources :<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">1. La broderie au petit point, très répandue en Europe
à l’époque, avec des grilles coloriées imprimées qui circulaient sur tout le
continent. Il y avait beaucoup de motifs floraux, particulièrement des roses,
violettes et du muguet qu’on retrouve dans le <i>påsöm</i>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">2. Ce qui dans le parler local se nommait <i>rysstrasor</i> - « chiffons
russes », c'est-à-dire des châles à grandes roses, en provenance de
Russie. Ces châles, ainsi que d’autres tissus avec des motifs semblables, sont
entrés dans les costumes régionaux de la province. Comment ? Eh bien, les femmes de Dalécarlie
(<i>kullor</i>) étaient des </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 18.6667px; line-height: 19.9733px;">entrepreneuses </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">extrêmement
travailleuses. Elles se déplaçaient loin de leur village pour
gagner leur vie. Une de leurs spécialités était la fabrication des bijoux à
partir des cheveux. Elles allaient vendre leurs marchandises jusqu’à Saint Pétersbourg.
Au retour, elles ramenaient des châles russes, et aussi des imprimés rouges qui
également font partie du patrimoine dalécarlien (j'en parlerai un peu plus une autre fois).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">J’étais surprise par le fait qu’à Dala-Floda, plutôt que
de nouer simplement un châle autour du cou, on en fabriquait une sorte de col
doublé de coton, qui repose joliment sur les épaules (et ainsi on pouvait en
faire au moins deux à partir du même châle).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipRr6DpqjVTwn69eZuPtKtQ414rb-3y2MxjlxWolzdwSlEVtsYVeBUJtYbADci6jklgrqP4A7nS8KiQfPGzTvPAPbBCi_wg-6oBtyQuDCvxF82JUQ9tmypgqZub7f8gDC5Sbrz29vwAZU/s1600/sjalar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipRr6DpqjVTwn69eZuPtKtQ414rb-3y2MxjlxWolzdwSlEVtsYVeBUJtYbADci6jklgrqP4A7nS8KiQfPGzTvPAPbBCi_wg-6oBtyQuDCvxF82JUQ9tmypgqZub7f8gDC5Sbrz29vwAZU/s320/sjalar.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Le tablier provient du village voisin de Nås. Le foulard
imprimé appartient au costume de Våmhus.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhogPmp73VhgRIznsExdXer7w959y_x8Ccf3V048FdTOzHDajtKIm7mSMl4FgkkOld9zJsqp3X0JOLvNbAd2ryVgRBMLF-gxKf9y9TNJjK1YUEcVn5iDWXiazBGjcSYhIaXFa39oLgTjgo/s1600/1998.11.1272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhogPmp73VhgRIznsExdXer7w959y_x8Ccf3V048FdTOzHDajtKIm7mSMl4FgkkOld9zJsqp3X0JOLvNbAd2ryVgRBMLF-gxKf9y9TNJjK1YUEcVn5iDWXiazBGjcSYhIaXFa39oLgTjgo/s320/1998.11.1272.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: large;">The Roses of
Dalecarlia (2)</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The embroidery I
have talked about called <i>påsöm</i>, which
is particular to the village of Dala-Floda, first appeared in the second half
of the nineteenth century. There are at least two possible sources:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">1.Berlin woolwork
(petit point), which was wide-spread in Europe at the time. Coloured printed
grids were circulating all over the
continent. There were many floral motifs, especially roses, violets and
lilies-of-the-valley, which we can observe in the <i>påsöm.<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">2. What was referred
to as <i>rysstrasor</i> – ‘Russian rags’
by the locals, i.e. shawls with large
roses originated in Russia. These shawls, as well as other fabrics with similar
patterns, became part of local costumes in Dalecarlia. How did this happen?
Well, Dalecarlian women (<i>kullor</i>) were
good entrepreneurs and extremely
hard-working. They travelled far from
their native villages in order to earn a livelihood. One of their specialities was
making jewellery out of hair. They went as far as Saint Petersburg in order to
sell their wares. On their way back, they brought back Russian shawls, as well
as pieces of printed red fabric which also
has become part of Dalecarlian traditional dress (more on that subject another time).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I was somewhat
surprised by the fact that in Dala-Floda, instead of simply tying a shawl
around their neck, the women would make a kind of large collar, lined with
cotton. It rests neatly on the shoulders and
allows more than one piece to be made from the same shawl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The apron is from
the neighbouring village of Nås. The printed scarf belongs to the Våmhus costume.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Additional photo: Laila Duran: Scandinavian Folklore
II.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4961919938713603611.post-15075824119681450482016-07-08T09:46:00.000+02:002016-07-08T11:46:11.135+02:00<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Les roses de
Dalécarlie (1) </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Les élèves et les lecteurs des livres de Léa Stansal
se souviendront peut-être d’un certain galon rouge dans le livre « Boîtes
à histoires ». <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Il figure autour d’une boîte (page 124), et au bord d’une
jupe jaune avec les instructions d’exécution qui se trouvent sous le titre
« Je m’attache ou je meurs » (page 150 et suivantes).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">C’est un galon en laine et rebrodé de laine que Léa a ramené
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Moi, j’ai trouvé ses racines….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Voici ce que j’ai vu lors d’une exposition locale dans
la province suédoise de Dalécarlie, et où j’ai été frappé par la ressemblance
au galon de Léa !<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Cette broderie est toute particulière au village de
Dala-Floda.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Je vous en dirai plus prochainement… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpHw3a5GSOyXxIV7U6g-y3KongTGIU2pnsB1yFdXrUEADrhjE2ANlLA4MIq5Q9m9p03yU-VtIv4v9sHYdAkjARzHF40W6B4Ml3TzWPMYnOSGRPk_NaEEaWveXlqbqcmZWe1rELNJbtys/s1600/DSCF3940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpHw3a5GSOyXxIV7U6g-y3KongTGIU2pnsB1yFdXrUEADrhjE2ANlLA4MIq5Q9m9p03yU-VtIv4v9sHYdAkjARzHF40W6B4Ml3TzWPMYnOSGRPk_NaEEaWveXlqbqcmZWe1rELNJbtys/s320/DSCF3940.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">The Roses of
Dalecarlia (1)</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFhb2k4V6pAw6n0bJN5anQxqM9nOWkW1VAimtdut_GFqnGIW8hclS3zxqbwkyzL076qBHNtm2W3iXOhEvS5QSp6R4pRzTlfWFSPT8T2OBYmyd1GUNmasMbdqkBmPuJLBJij16FGtewRbk/s1600/DSCF3811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFhb2k4V6pAw6n0bJN5anQxqM9nOWkW1VAimtdut_GFqnGIW8hclS3zxqbwkyzL076qBHNtm2W3iXOhEvS5QSp6R4pRzTlfWFSPT8T2OBYmyd1GUNmasMbdqkBmPuJLBJij16FGtewRbk/s320/DSCF3811.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">In her book
« Boîtes à histoires « (‘Boxes full of stories’) , the French
textile artist Léa Stansal gives the pattern for a certain red trimming, which
she has stitched around a box (page 124), and to a yellow doll’s skirt (page
150 ff). Léa found this trimming in the United States, at the textile fair in
Sturbridge, MA.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2kviOWfctrJEpde54YLlU3egfwl3IMCDdwsYCYW9F-F2HTf3o-qugqweZuyymQ4ceRudNwdps8ceuhDVIKWxZwCtPFfB4oV-E5Oq3HGvEPnfaqnHH4o1oO-cIgCcF0ltdtNz2HPLomls/s1600/DSCF4278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2kviOWfctrJEpde54YLlU3egfwl3IMCDdwsYCYW9F-F2HTf3o-qugqweZuyymQ4ceRudNwdps8ceuhDVIKWxZwCtPFfB4oV-E5Oq3HGvEPnfaqnHH4o1oO-cIgCcF0ltdtNz2HPLomls/s320/DSCF4278.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The original
trimming is made of wool and it is embroidered
with woollen yarn. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihKSHtdQEZmx9-_7L7KZTpE8SRBlFoPxTLB8_nsW__D7IojlceHNWsL-rPhnYq4fCATexPNaaQmouIr0DWwRn_y5Z6hbxiKRMsjvdVe8YTboSQOnkcRt2Y3Qfz8vc2zG2gL-zmeZWUI90/s1600/DSCF4276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihKSHtdQEZmx9-_7L7KZTpE8SRBlFoPxTLB8_nsW__D7IojlceHNWsL-rPhnYq4fCATexPNaaQmouIr0DWwRn_y5Z6hbxiKRMsjvdVe8YTboSQOnkcRt2Y3Qfz8vc2zG2gL-zmeZWUI90/s320/DSCF4276.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Well, I have found
the origins of this trimming…!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The pictures above are what I saw
at a local exhibition in the Swedish province of Dalecarlia, and the
resemblance to Léa’s trimming struck me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">This kind of
embroidery is a specificity of the
village of Dala-Floda.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">And I will tell
you more soon…..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Margueritehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08127403251135153854noreply@blogger.com3